Here’s all you need to know about it:
First impressions
The location – deep in the heart of Kazimierz (the historic Jewish quarter) – is discreet to the point that this restaurant feels almost hidden away. The angular lines and classical façade of the 4-storey 19C building exude an air of bohemian elegance.Step inside
Diners have every chance of being tucked away in an intimate corner. Cream marble blends with rustic wooden tables, while ornate wrought iron sculptures and racks of fine wines all help create something that’s far more than a smart bistro. Tables offering most privacy are in the basement, a characterful century-old cellar; the most theatrical are the two in front of the open kitchen, which is the beating heart of the restaurant.The Chef
The well-travelled and highly experienced Cracovian chef Przemysław Klima recently returned to his home city after nearly a decade away. He has worked at Senses, atelier Amaro and Tamka43 in Warsaw and undertook a ‘stage’ at noma in Copenhagen which had a big influence on him. He has given the restaurant new momentum and focus and his experienced team exude single-mindedness and concentration.The Menu
Przemysław uses the very best of the Polish larder to skilfully produce creative, modern dishes with more than a hint of pared-down Nordic influence. The concise menu descriptions belie the complexity of the dishes and the tension builds as you advance through the meal; you can never say dining here is predictable. The best option is to go for either the 5 or 7 course tasting menu.
Bottiglieria 1881_PAWEL LUKASZ OKUNIEWICZ
The Dishes
Our inspectors’ highlights include a flavoursome tranche of halibut with corn and saffron and an adventurous dish incorporating charcoal, vegetables, pumpkin and sauerkraut. There’s a purity and refinement to the cooking, coupled with a confidence in modern cooking techniques which allows flavours to shine – and it’s all brought together with neat and creative plating. The memory of these colourful and original dishes will stay with you for a long time.
Bottiglieria 1881_PAWEL LUKASZ OKUNIEWICZ
The Service and Wines
The racks of fine wines tell you that wine plays a large part in any experience here. The pairings are carefully chosen and will encourage debate and discussion. Alternatively, you can choose from the impressive list of over 100 wines; the recommendations and suggestions are always worth considering. Service is discreet, efficient and professional, with the personable staff working in close harmony with the kitchen brigade. Some of the dishes are delivered from the open kitchen by the chefs themselves, allowing diners the chance to learn more about the fabulous food.
