In the memories of many accomplished chefs is a warm hearth, large steaming pots and a loving mother tirelessly chopping, stirring and perfecting food for the family.
That’s no different for chef Manjunath Mural of one-Michelin-starred restaurant Song of India. The chef grew up in Mumbai and his mother and grandmother were maternal figures who made sure his family was kept well-fed.
But one particular dish holds a special place in his heart: the kofta. Here, sliced vegetables cooked in a fragrant medley of spices is encased in a creamy combination of cottage cheese and nuts offset by a mildly spicy-yet-piquant tomato gravy.
“I have a lot of memories attached with this dish because it’s usually made in India on special occasions,” says the chef. “My mother and grandmother used to cook this on my birthday, my brother, sister’s birthdays or anniversaries.”
That’s no different for chef Manjunath Mural of one-Michelin-starred restaurant Song of India. The chef grew up in Mumbai and his mother and grandmother were maternal figures who made sure his family was kept well-fed.
But one particular dish holds a special place in his heart: the kofta. Here, sliced vegetables cooked in a fragrant medley of spices is encased in a creamy combination of cottage cheese and nuts offset by a mildly spicy-yet-piquant tomato gravy.
“I have a lot of memories attached with this dish because it’s usually made in India on special occasions,” says the chef. “My mother and grandmother used to cook this on my birthday, my brother, sister’s birthdays or anniversaries.”
Chef Mural shaping the kofta.
Honouring a Memory
This was the dish his mother cooked to celebrate his acceptance into hospitality school – an especially meaningful occasion to him. After all, he is the only one in the family who aspired to a culinary career while the rest of his family are doctors. That his mother cooked such a special dish signified emotional support and unconditional love.
Halfway through his studies though, tragedy struck. “I lost my mother because of cancer,” he explains.
The grief was immense, but that only brought the kofta closer to his heart. “I feel very emotional towards this dish because it’s very attached to my memories,” he adds. To him, it came to symbolise his mother’s love and has since become part of his usual repertoire.
Today, he tries as best as possible to replicate the flavours and does it in five steps. The first is to mix cottage cheese with nuts and spices until it blends well together. Next, he makes the stuffing by stir-frying shredded vegetables like carrots and beetroot with beans, corn, ginger and garlic in a hot pan.
This was the dish his mother cooked to celebrate his acceptance into hospitality school – an especially meaningful occasion to him. After all, he is the only one in the family who aspired to a culinary career while the rest of his family are doctors. That his mother cooked such a special dish signified emotional support and unconditional love.
Halfway through his studies though, tragedy struck. “I lost my mother because of cancer,” he explains.
The grief was immense, but that only brought the kofta closer to his heart. “I feel very emotional towards this dish because it’s very attached to my memories,” he adds. To him, it came to symbolise his mother’s love and has since become part of his usual repertoire.
Today, he tries as best as possible to replicate the flavours and does it in five steps. The first is to mix cottage cheese with nuts and spices until it blends well together. Next, he makes the stuffing by stir-frying shredded vegetables like carrots and beetroot with beans, corn, ginger and garlic in a hot pan.
This is set aside as he makes the tomato gravy by simmering onions, blended tomatoes and spices until the flavours harmonise. Once that’s done, he places the stuffing onto a mound of dough, shapes it and deep fries the mix. All this is served with a good dollop of the tomato gravy.
Updating The Classic
As classic as the dish is, chef Mural has given it a contemporary spin to reflect modern dining preferences. He does this by adding aloo salli – deep fried potatoes very much like French fries and plates it up not in a rustic bowl but on a white plate.
While it might seem different from what he grew up eating, both elements are still homely dishes, made even simpler thanks to modern appliances. The vegetables are shredded with just the touch of a button on a KitchenAid mixer with the food processor attachment while the aloo salli is cut using a spiralizer attachment to remove the hassle of slicing potatoes by hand.
“Keep yourself simple,” his mum used to tell him – words he clearly still lives and breathes till today.
Updating The Classic
As classic as the dish is, chef Mural has given it a contemporary spin to reflect modern dining preferences. He does this by adding aloo salli – deep fried potatoes very much like French fries and plates it up not in a rustic bowl but on a white plate.
While it might seem different from what he grew up eating, both elements are still homely dishes, made even simpler thanks to modern appliances. The vegetables are shredded with just the touch of a button on a KitchenAid mixer with the food processor attachment while the aloo salli is cut using a spiralizer attachment to remove the hassle of slicing potatoes by hand.
“Keep yourself simple,” his mum used to tell him – words he clearly still lives and breathes till today.
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