The answer to this question lies, of course, in the concept developed by Chef Nagaya. He prefers to reflect the kaiseki cuisine in his restaurant, known for offering the one of the finest gastronomic experiences of Japanese cuisine. In essence, kaiseki cuisine refers to a selection of specific courses, a menu with dishes that complement one another. That’s why it’s not possible to eat à la carte here; you will only find tasting menus that change seasonally and are organized with this attitude. As a culinary approach, kaiseki, beyond its technical meaning, is based on the idea of welcoming every customer as a “guest” and ensuring they leave satisfied with an exceptional experience. As a matter of fact, Chef Nagaya describes his culinary approach as “being open to contemporary touches without compromising this philosophy.”
Perhaps the ultimate proof of Nagaya’s strict commitment to a refined approach to gastronomy is that all three of his restaurants have been awarded by Michelin Stars. He began living in Germany in 2000, where he earned his first Michelin Star with his eponymous kaiseki restaurant, Nagaya. But this was just the beginning. Likewise, he opened Yoshi by Nagaya in 2016, which he described as a “return to his roots” project and earned a star, too. And today, with Sankai by Nagaya in Istanbul, he shines as a chef with Michelin Stars in three different restaurants.
Located on the third floor of the Bebek Hotel by The Stay, Sankai by Nagaya takes its name from here, and many of its details revolve around the number three. For example, the menu features three signature cocktails that change with the seasons, and one wall is adorned with a “3” created by Mamimozi, an artist who reimagines Japanese calligraphy tradition with a very contemporary expression. As you might expect, the decor is inspired by Japanese aesthetics, simple yet striking. The restaurant’s meticulously designed, mystical ambiance aims to immerse you in a completely different atmosphere where you will forget everything the moment you walk in the door, and it succeeds in this wonderfully. The breathtaking Bosphorus view from the hotel’s seafront windows also plays a significant role in the allure of the restaurant.
As it would be impossible to achieve the high level of satisfaction that kaiseki cuisine aims to attain in a crowded restaurant, the place serves a maximum of 24 people at a time. Directly opposite Chef Shibata’s kitchen is an area that offers a chef’s table experience for up to six people. Chef Nagaya was born in Gifu but started his culinary adventure in Osaka.
Naturally, Osaka gastronomy, one of Japan’s most unique and prominent cities, has significantly influenced his culinary education. On the other hand, Chef Shibata was born and raised in Kanazawa, another city in Japan that is famous for its cuisine and is known as the “city of flavor”. Due to its coastal location, Kanazawa is well-known for its fish, seafood, and locally grown vegetables, many of which are native to the area. The two chefs agree to create dishes that symbolize and unite “sea” and “mountain.” The root vegetables added to the seafood perfectly bring the flavor of the “earth” to the palate. However, it’s not only about flavors: Plates at Sankai are designed to evoke sea and mountain from different angles with their “front and back.”
These two chefs share more than just harmony: their culinary adventures are based on the “challenge” they have been experienced. When Chef Nagaya wanted to expand into Europe, he faced harsh criticism from his masters, making him more ambitious. Proving himself in Europe and to his masters with the Michelin Star he earned was a huge turning point for him. For Chef Nagaya, success in the kitchen comes from the “heart” and passion. Cooking to bring joy to his family, he’s deeply dedicated to the culinary arts, saying, “If I could bring my mother back today, I would cook for her”. Contoversely, Chef Shibata is one of the few female sushi chefs in Japan. She persisted despite the traditional belief that women cannot be sushi chefs. She was the only woman in her class when she began her training.
At this juncture, Can Yıldırım enters the scene as the partner to complete the trio and contribute to Sankai’s success. When Yıldırım, who had spent a considerable amount of time in Japan, invited Nagaya to Istanbul to open an authentic Japanese restaurant, Chef Nagaya was deeply impressed by the city’s energy and saw its tremendous potential. Chef Shibata agrees and adds that Can Yıldırım’s fluent Japanese and cultural understanding also played a role for her for establishing Sankai in Istanbul. Shibata also saw this as an excellent opportunity to work with fish variety of Bosphorus. “I want to show people what real sushi is like,” she says. Having tasted all kinds of food and fish across various Japanese cities while working in the Japanese Navy, she emphasizes the importance of using local fish for sushi due to its freshness. She has comprehensive knowledge of the sushi culture of different regions and uses it to her advantage: “My kitchen holds traces of Hokkaido and Okinawa. Scorpionfish from Hokkaido and red mullet from Okinawa are renowned, and now I enjoy making sushi with the same fish, but from the Bosphorus.” She really enjoys processing Istanbul’s fish and seafood, as long as they meet her high standards, of course! “You wouldn’t believe how selective Shibata is when it comes to fish; she chooses them one by one and sometimes even catches the fish herself!” says Yıldırım, emphasizing that these fish are transformed into masterpieces in the chef’s hands with essential ingredients such as nori seaweed and rice vinegar from Japan. All three of them are on the same page when it comes to being meticulous. The harmony between the three is evident in every detail of Sankai.
In fact, this harmony extends beyond Sankai. The Bebek Hotel, home to Sankai, is a historic one that blends seamlessly into the cultural fabric of Istanbul. The art deco-styled hotel has 22 rooms adorned similarly and features two more restaurants, one located directly by the sea. The terrace, open from May to October, includes a bar with a stunning view. The Bebek Hotel stands out as one of the city's premier destinations for both dining and entertainment, pledging to offer guests an unforgettable experience as a distinctive "food & experience hotel."
The gem in the hotel’s crown is undoubtedly the Michelin-starred Sankai by Nagaya. Japanese cuisine, which has left its mark on Istanbul’s Michelin Guide Selection with some eligible Japanese restaurants such as Nobu, Zuma, Inari Omakase, Itsumi, Akira Back, and ROKA, now proves with Sankai by Nagaya that there is room for finest examples of every food culture in Istanbul’s vast range of cuisines. It is up to local and international guests to enjoy this diversity.
Illustration image // Erdal Akbaş/Sankai by Nagaya
