15 June 2026
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When Plates London won its first MICHELIN Star in early 2025, it felt like a momentous occasion for plant-based dining. As the UK’s first vegan restaurant to receive a Star, it came to represent how much animal-free cuisine had developed. And yet, both then and now, Plates is so much more than just ‘the vegan Star’. In the time since picking up the award, Chef Kirk Haworth and co have never rested on their laurels and have continued to evolve their menu. As I discovered first-hand during my recent dinner here, Plates London is a restaurant packed with invention, culinary curiosity and, above all, bags of flavour.
The Perfect Setting
I arrived at the restaurant after a short walk from Old Street station. Sitting on the edge of Shoreditch, Plates feels like it’s found its ideal home. The area is a hipster haven, so it’s no surprise that plant-based dining flourishes here, yet the restaurant itself is hidden away from the hustle and bustle. I entered through the discreet front door on the street, but you could also approach through the serene courtyard.Inside, I was greeted by a warmth emanating from both the team and the room. The neutral walls and dark wood furnishings had a natural, earthy quality, while the dining room was small but not cramped. This meant there was a good buzz circulating around the room, but the experience never felt hectic. Plates is not a hushed, formal restaurant, but it is a soothing and relaxing one.
The Perfect Balance
As it turned out, the warm welcome I received on arrival was an indicator of the attentive, affable service everyone would receive for the rest of the meal. The team at Plates have a knack for seeming fully relaxed yet being constantly efficient and switched-on. They are friendly, personable and slick, allowing the experience to unfold as smoothly as possible.During this particular visit, I was sat at the chef’s counter and had plenty of opportunity to engage with Kirk Haworth himself, who is a charming host and radiates such genuine passion for his restaurant and for vegan dining as a whole. As someone who’s decided to eat plant-based food for the rest of his life, he’s on a mission to make sure it’s as delicious as possible.
The Perfect Plates
One thing’s for certain: Plates London has raised the bar for plant-based cooking in this country. But whether the dishes are vegan or not, what matters to us as Inspectors is how they taste. There were a number of things that impressed me about the cooking here, but the one that struck me most was the strong culinary technique underpinning all the dishes.Haworth is a classically trained chef, and you can see that in his impeccably made sauces; what’s most interesting is how he has adapted this to plant-based ingredients in such a clever way. What’s more, the depth and balance of the dishes was superb; each one came with layers of flavour and texture that all worked together in brilliant harmony. Together they formed a tasting menu, which for me had a few distinct highlights.
House Laminated Sourdough Bread, Whipped Cultured Butter, Tomato Miso and Broth
This excellent loaf of rich croissant-style bread has become something of a signature here. It had a lavishness that meant it was delicious on its own, yet I was pleased to see it still came with an excellent accompaniment. The plant-based butter here changes regularly, with my version being blended à la minute with tomato miso, which combined perfectly with the bread – as did a heartwarming miso broth on the side.
Barbecued Maitake Mushroom, Black Bean Mole, Kimchi, Aioli and Puffed Rice
The menu has changed almost entirely since the early days of Plates, but one course that has endured is this terrific maitake mushroom dish. The sautéed mushroom had a satisfying texture and its barbecue-licked edges added an extra layer of flavour. It sat on a smooth black bean mole and was topped with a potent kimchi to cut through the richness. Plenty of puffed rice added the textural contrast to finish the dish.English Asparagus, Strawberry, Tomato, Watermelon and Thai Basil
A wonderful seasonal dish, the layers of complexity in this really stood out for me. The base was a rich, subtly spiced chilled tomato soup studded with semi-dried tomatoes and strawberry. To this, chopped asparagus was added along with a little fresh watermelon for contrast. A Thai basil granita topped the dish, ensuring that all the textures and flavours combined to a delicious whole in a superb way.
Flavours of Banoffee Pie
A simple concept cleverly executed, this nostalgia-tinged dessert had all the refinement I expected. Banana caramel was combined with a light banana foam and a rich, dark rum-soaked sponge. This was topped with a blend of buckwheat, candied pecan nuts and dehydrated banana, then finished with a soft-set banana ice cream dusted with top-quality cacao powder for a bittersweet finish. Together, this was a memorable end to the meal.Inspector's Tips
- For those who like a more immersive experience, book the chef's counter, where you can interact with the team and get to enjoy an extra course on the tasting menu.
- If you're visiting London and in need of accommodation, don't hesitate to book one of the MICHELIN Guide Inspectors' hotel recommendations in Shoreditch.
- If you're a plant-based diner, don't forget to eat at the other best vegan-friendly restaurants in London.
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Hero Image: The final touches being applied to a dish at Plates London, the UK's first vegan MICHELIN-Star restaurant. © Inigo/Plates London
