MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
An experience at Thomas Keller’s Per Se is one to be savored, treasured, recounted and remembered. Once you’ve been welcomed by the charming team, the somewhat incongruous feeling of riding an escalator up to such a place will soon be forgotten, as will the Time Warner Center itself. However, even with those stunning cityscape views afforded by the large windows—and the clever design of the room whereby all tables get to look out—your attention won’t stray far from the plate in front of you. Such is the appeal of the dishes. There are two tasting menus, one of which is vegetarian. They do offer alternatives using extra-lavish ingredients at eye-wateringly expensive supplements but unless you're richer than Croesus, you really needn't consider them as the "standard" dishes provide all the flavor and luxury you'll need. Just put yourself in the chef's hands and enjoy a meal that is balanced, varied and as seasonal as it gets. The kitchen's sourcing is legendary and will make you think again about ingredients you consider familiar. For instance, the milk-poached poularde is so exceptionally succulent and flavorsome that any chicken you subsequently sample will seem a disappointment.