The longevity of Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s flagship restaurant can be attributed to a combination of factors—a sumptuous dining room with a superior location, a discreet atmosphere, as well as its contemporary French cuisine. There is a stirring attention to detail in every course offered here. Dishes showcase everything from seasonal product impeccably treated and thoughtfully garnished, to nuanced flavor combinations. Classical French techniques underpin the cooking, although you’ll come across subtle influences of a more global heritage, including yuzu with sea urchin, or chipotle with shrimp. Desserts are more elaborate and the ingredients come from the luxury end of the counter. Like walking through Business Class on your way to First, you have to pass through the appealingly buzzy Nougatine to get to this restaurant. The low-slung chairs and large tables mean you need a certain confidence in your conversational delivery if you want to entertain the whole table. If you’re here on a date, which many appear to be, you could find yourself sitting side-by-side—the new orthodoxy of dining à deux.