The longevity of Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s flagship restaurant can be attributed to a combination of factors—a sumptuous dining room with a superior location, a discreet atmosphere, as well as its contemporary French cuisine. Lunch is a superb option for those who don't want to break the bank. However, the best way to experience the talent of the kitchen here is to go for the prix-fixe dinner menu, where you might get a choice of seven or eight compositions per course. Classical French techniques underpin the cooking, although sometimes you’ll come across subtle influences of a more global heritage, including yuzu with creamy sea urchin, or chipotle with shrimp. Desserts are more elaborate constructions and the ingredients come from the luxury end of the counter. Like walking through Business Class on your way to First, you have to pass through the appealingly buzzy Nougatine to get to this restaurant. The low-slung chairs and large tables mean you need a certain confidence in your conversational delivery if you want to entertain the whole table. If you're here on a date, which many appear to be, you could find yourself sitting side-by-side-the new orthodoxy of dining à deux.