MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

Chiapas. Puebla. San Luis Potosí. One can literally taste the regions and cities that Chef Cosme Aguilar’s amazingly complex menu explores—including his own childhood recipes to honor his mother’s memory. A steady stream of hungry diners seek out this rather small, tasteful dining room for friendly yet professional service and soul-warming fare. Aim for the large, fantastic communal table. Start your meal with hearty rajas con crema, combining none-too-spicy poblanos with sweet, fresh corn, Mexican sour cream and cheese served alongside a stack of fresh and slightly toasty tortillas. This kitchen’s tender chicken enchiladas with mole de Piaxtla may induce swooning, thanks to a sauce that is unexpectedly sweet yet heady with bitter chocolate, raisins, almonds, cloves, cinnamon, chilies, garlic and sesame. The results? Incomparable. It's the kind of food that thrills palates (and tempts wanton thoughts). Expect the chamorros de borrego al huaxamole to arrive falling off the bone and redolent of epazote, allspice and pulla chilies. Its fruity-spicy broth is drinkable. Every bit of every spongy and buttery layer of the cow and goat's milk pastel tres leches is absolutely worth the indulgence.