MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Brendan Sodikoff's lovely destination makes the case that New York should be home to more Chicago influencers. This may be a meat-centric spot named for its street address, but the intimate size and modest exterior make it feel like a charming hideaway. The mood of the staff is warm and welcoming. Some dishes may break with tradition but offer tasty results, like spaghetti carbonara twirled with pecorino and smoky guanciale set beneath a silky fried egg. Others are firmly footed classics, like a phenomenal bone-in Porterhouse for two, served alongside truffle potatoes, creamed spinach and a whole head of roasted garlic. Bookend your meal with wonderful cocktails and desserts-perhaps a dense wedge of Valrhona dark chocolate pie in an Oreo-cookie crust.