Lauded Chef Yoshihiko Kousaka is in control of this superb sushiya, which offers a stellar omakase in an elegant setting. The room is sleek, modern and flaunts a handsome Japanese sensibility—there is a counter for 12, along with three small tables, as well as a relaxed but deeply attentive staff to help enhance the experience. Soft piano music plays in the background, and the crowd is energetic and warm.Chef Kousaka often prepares each item of the omakase himself, methodically working pieces of fish into something transcendent, and explaining them in full to the bright-eyed patrons.The impressive 15-piece version can be tailored somewhat as diners can opt for sushi only or sushi with sashimi, as well as such luxe supplemental items as uni, toro, king crab and ankimo (monkfish liver). Here, fish is minimally embellished, relying instead on original sourcing and the chef’s impeccable technique. For instance, a night’s parade churned out of this kitchen may include everything from red snapper, Japanese sea bass and silky shrimp, to wild winter yellowtail, firefly squid with sweet miso and tosazu jelly, as well as mackerel with ginger and scallion.