MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
This is the kind of place where one can sink in and never leave. The three dining rooms each exude elegance with a bit of romance and quirk, thanks to walls covered in ornate escutcheons and whimsical paintings. Against these dark pebbled backgrounds, find oversized booths, banquettes and mirrored light bulbs casting funky shadows. The semi-outdoor solarium also has a living wall of moss and ferns. Servers are friendly, genuine and without a hint of pretense. Chef Lee Wolen's modern menu is widely appealing with a Mediterranean edge. Meals are designed for guests to choose one hot and one cold appetizer, like yellowtail slices over fennel, dotted with the flavored oils and emulsions of horseradish, pistachio and Concord grape. This might be followed by campanelle strewn with chanterelles, deboned frog legs, porcini mushroom powder and pecorino. Main courses have included a graceful preparation of olive oil-poached walleye with white matsutake mushroom sabayon and roasted sunchokes. In the same vein, dessert is an exceptionally pleasant experience. Fromage blanc beignets, for instance, are rolled in sugar, wattleseed and set over diced pear, pear sorbet and flower petals.