MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
There comes a point when pared-down style jumps from being easy-to-miss and becomes hard-to-forget. When a utilitarian and self-consciously bare-bones interior becomes attractively modern and industrial. When a lack of any FOH staff makes the service seem playfully all-hands-on-deck. The explicit rap music playing in the background reflects the deeply talented chefs’ ethos, going well beyond laissez-faire to reach the point of “we don’t give a damn.” You probably won’t either once you taste the food—not every dish on their unabashedly creative menu works, but when it does, the results are sublime. The extensive nightly tasting has no formal progression to speak of, but the team is chatty and ready to describe each item, sometimes from over their shoulder by another table. Dinner might reveal homemade rolled pappardelle, laced with beurre monté and paired with peas, ramp purée, nasturtium and delightful uni bubbles; or a generous lobe of poached foie gras, topped with hazelnut, cocoa nib and brioche croutons, delicately laid over trumpet mushrooms and mango gel. For the finale, tender mackerel finds elevated company with hijiki slivers and custard, miso butter and spicy radish kimchi.