Over the past decade, Burgundy has emerged as the leading wine region of our time. The Burgundian concept of "terroir"—the notion that where a wine is grown fundamentally defines its identity—has become the central tenet of the wine world. Under pressure from passionate wine lovers and seduced chefs, prices have skyrocketed, potentially putting off the quality wine lover.
But beware, there are many superb terroirs in Burgundy that enjoy modest prestige, more by historical accident than by the quality of their soils or exposure. When they benefit from the same viticultural practices and winemaking as the more famous sites, the results are often brilliant. The curse of a "minor" appellation is a boon, as it means that some of the most fascinating wines produced in Burgundy today remain very reasonably priced.
There are many surprises, or secret gems, for those who have the patience to seek them out. Here are a few secrets from our cellars that we would like to share with you:
2019 Didier Fornerol Côte de Nuits-Villages
$42 - Average priceDiscover more / more
Fornerol returned to his six-hectare family domaine in Corgoloin in 1999, and he has been turning out terrific wines ever since. There's no smoke or mirrors at this address, just thoughtful and creative winemaking with careful élevage in barrel with minimal percentages of new oak. Complex, perfumed and elegant, the wines merit a place in any serious Burgundy lover's cellar. Aromas of red berries and cassis mingle with peonies and orange. The modest tariff this wine commands proves that great Burgundy remains accessible to all. You could try it with a seared duck breast, particularly one accented with red fruits or currants.
2020 Domaine Michel Mallard Ladoix 1er Cru Les Gréchons Blanc
$41 - Average priceDiscover more / more
Vibrant, concentrated and seamless, these are terrific Burgundies that testify to impressive commitment to quality and attention to detail. Everything here comes warmly recommended. This wine reveals notions of citrus zest, toasted nuts, smoke and wet stones. It shows a medium to full-bodied style that is chalky and layered, and it’s incisive and tightly wound, concluding with a saline finish. The wine’s texture could stand up to a seafood risotto, or perhaps the more exotic saffron-rich flavors of a paella with prawns.
2020 Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand Fixin Champs des Charmes
$64 - Average priceDiscover more / more
The 2020 vintage has turned out brilliantly at Domaine Jérôme Galeyrand, an exciting producer whose emphasis is on interesting old pre-clonal selections of Pinot Noir. There are no grands or premiers crus at this address but plenty of ancient vines in nicely situated communal lieux-dits in the Côte de Nuits. Farming is organic. Galeyrand’s use of new oak and sulfur is decidedly light. Aromas of raspberries, plums, warm spices, orange rind and loamy soil come soaring from the glass. The classic lines of this wine are suited to a chicken or rabbit dish in a creamy mustard sauce.
2019 Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux Bourgogne Pinot Fin
$65 - Average priceDiscover more / more
Charles Lachaux’s meteoric ascent to the very summit of Burgundy’s producer hierarchy continues unabated, but at least for now, his Bourgogne Pinot Fin, lavished with the same attention to detail and ambitious farming, is still available for a reasonable tariff. This wine is showing brilliantly with scents of rose petals, sweet berries, Indian spices, orange rind and violets. Its ample core of fruit and structured tannins could match the earthy but delicate flavors of wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles or morels, with fillet steak. Anyone looking for a taste of one of the world’s most sought-after wineries should look for a bottle of this.
2020 Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune 1er Cru du Château
$42 - Average priceDiscover more / more
The other four wines on this list are small-production cuvées that are so typical of Burgundy. This Beaune premier cru blend, by contrast, typically checks in at around 50,000 bottles. The fact that it derives from superbly situated vineyards around the town of Beaune, that Bouchard Père et Fils is in the process of organic certification and that the low yields of the 2020 vintage have lent it exceptional depth and character mean that it’s a fine ambassador for Burgundy and a reminder that very good wine needn’t be out of reach. The wine is medium rich and deeply layered with cherries, sweet berries, rose petals, spice and the robust favors for a rack of lamb in herb crust.
Hero Image : Vignoble Côte de Nuits, Fixin / H. Lenain/hemis.fr
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