This was not my first visit to the masterful Hélène Darroze at The Connaught. And it wasn’t the first time I have been struck by the sheer unimpeachable quality of it all. It’s the kind of restaurant where every dish is so technically refined, the service is so well-drilled and the dining room is so stylishly pristine, that the word ‘flawless’ can’t help but cross your mind. With longtime Executive Chef Marco Zampese seamlessly executing Darroze’s signature style – French classics with an international touch, where ingredient quality is paramount – my whole experience was exceptional.
Elegance at Every Turn
The great thing about arriving at Hélène Darroze’s restaurant is that it also means arriving at The Connaught, which is always a pleasure. This grand dame of a hotel has been one of the bastions of London luxury for decades and stepping inside still gives me a thrill. A top-hatted doorman at the entrance was charming, ushering us through the kind of heavy rotating doors that are archetypal of an old-school hotel like this.Once we were in the lobby, I was struck by the way its sense of history was combined with modernity. It doesn’t have the grandeur you might expect, but rather an understated elegance. We made our way to the restaurant, walking past the renowned Connaught Bar (a truly beautiful space) on the way. Inside, Darroze’s dining room continues the elegance of the hotel, but with a softer, warmer style. Light wood panelling and pastel colours contribute to a bright, open feel, while the immaculately laid tables are exactly as you’d expect.
Silver Service at a Gold Standard
From the moment we entered and were greeted by three different members of staff, the service was straight from the high-end gastronomy handbook. That’s not to say it lacked personality; in fact, the team all balanced formality with friendliness in a way that made a difficult skill look easy. There was nothing forced about any of it; everyone felt so natural in their roles and the high level of attentiveness never felt over-indulgent.I particularly enjoyed the wine service, where I got to engage with our sommelier and discuss his passion for wine. It never felt like someone was just trying to sell us an expensive bottle; like all the team, he really cared about our experience. The pace of the meal, too, was spot-on. It was a four-hour experience in total but actually felt quite swift, everything gliding along seamlessly as if the dishes were all destined to arrive at that exact moment.
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The Highest of Highlights
As our meal began, we were treated to a procession of immaculate dishes showcasing the flavours of the season. What struck me throughout the tasting menu was the detail and immense technical skill on every plate. This is a restaurant where nothing is out of place; each dish looked like a work of art and tasted like it too. Perfect precision and judgement were recurring themes, as was the indisputable quality of the ingredients. Almost every course on the menu came with the origin of the produce listed on the menu, showing the kitchen’s pride in provenance.At a restaurant like this, every dish is a joy to eat and should be savoured – in a sense, the whole meal was one big highlight. But a handful of courses lingered in my memory particularly long.
Tomato, Sardine, Pantelleria Capers, Marjoram
This was one of the earliest indicators of the kitchen’s confidence in their outstanding ingredients. You could say the dish looked strikingly simple – but to have messed around with such deliciously pure flavours would have been a crime. A picture-perfect slice of tomato held so much flavour and was enhanced by the presence of lightly salted, top-notch sardines, tiny marjoram buds and perky Pantelleria capers. On the side was an exceptional tomato focaccia topped with lightly pickled tomato skins, and finally a tea-like ‘gazpacho’ bursting with seasonal freshness.Squid (Surprise Course)
This was one of the ‘surprise’ dishes that we received despite it not being listed on the menu – and what a delightful surprise it was. The meltingly soft Hebridean squid was one of the most tender I’ve had the pleasure of eating, served in a rich squid ink sauce that was balanced by the freshness of sea lettuce. Tiny cubes of Charlotte potato and puffed quinoa added different textures to the composition, while some fragrant basil was the perfect finishing note.Lobster, Tandoori Spices, Carrot, Citrus, Coriander
A highlight among highlights, this is one of Hélène Darroze’s signature dishes and it’s easy to see why. Sometimes served with scallop, we got the lobster version and it delivered pure culinary joy. The superbly meaty lobster tail had been roasted in a delicate array of tandoor spices that delivered a subtle punch. Accompanying this was a buttery carrot purée studded with coriander oil and laden with citrus for a little extra zip. Finally, the lobster claw was served in a classic glossy lobster and chicken jus with just-sautéed spring onion and leek. Outstanding.
Signature Baba, Smoked Madagascar Vanilla Chantilly Cream, Apricot
I paid an extra supplement to have this dish, while my colleague enjoyed the equally impressive chocolate and Earl Grey tea concoction from the main menu. Another Darroze signature, the baba is not to be missed, with each element outstanding in its own right. The savarin was beautifully light and gently caramelised on the outer; the Chantilly cream was as silky as you’d expect with its smoky vanilla flavour; and the Armagnac used to douse the sponge was one from the Darroze family themselves, with a choice of vintages given. Expertly roasted apricot and a smooth apricot sorbet completed a classic French dish from the very top drawer.Final Thoughts
One of the best compliments I could give to Hélène Darroze at The Connaught is that it would be at the top of my list of restaurants for teaching young chefs about the principles of great food. Hélène Darroze has passed on to her team an appreciation of quality ingredients and an understanding of how best to use them. The delicacy and poise in the cooking technique during my meal were outstanding and the flavour composition of each dish equally well-judged, with every flavour on the plate enhancing the purity of the produce. That Signature Baba said it all: simplicity and brilliance in perfect harmony.Related Articles:
Hero Image: Scallop with tandoori spices from Hélène Darroze at The Connaught. © Justin De Souza
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