2024 California MICHELIN Bib Gourmands

Healdsburg

Molti Amici
Cuisine: Italian

Wine country certainly has no shortage of this sort of casual Italian eatery, with a menu featuring the expected wood-fired pizzas and house-made pastas—but few of them manage to hit their mark quite so dead on as they do here. They may not be reinventing the wheel, but those pizzas are ideally blistered and feature simple but compelling toppings like squash blossom with fontina and balsamic, and the pastas, like a satisfying take on bucatini amatriciana topped with crunchy breadcrumbs, offer an ideally al dente chew. On one of Healdsburg’s not-infrequent balmy days, the enclosed patio, complete with bocce court, is indeed an excellent spot to gather with “many friends,” as suggested by the name.

Los Angeles

Cedro Italian Restaurant
Cuisine: Italian

Three Italian friends banded together to open this welcoming spot, named for their grandparents' love for cedro, or citron, plants. Don't let the strip mall location fool you—this place is especially inviting, and the food is authentic Italian in both technique and flavor. Skillfully made by hand, pasta dishes rank high. Tagliatelle topped with a ragu sauce, grated parmesan, and a drizzle of high-quality olive oil is proof positive that good ingredients and extra care always deliver the best results. Ossobuco served over a bed of saffron risotto is wonderfully tender and flavorful, and sized for sharing. End on a sweet note with their tiramisu or panna cotta—neither will disappoint.

Grá
Cuisine: Pizza

There's a welcoming vibe at this hip spot where the focus is on natural fermentation with sourdough pizza, seasonal pickled vegetables, and fermented drinks such as tepache. Grá has indoor and covered patio seating, but all eyes will be on the cooks preparing pizzas in their wood-fired oven. It's all about the thin and crispy sourdough crust with high quality toppings. Classics like pepperoni will always rule, but hard hitters like stracciatella and prosciutto with basil and a drizzle of coffee-infused honey are worth noting. While pizza is certainly the scene stealer, don't ignore their salads or appetizers, including grilled maitake with pickled green peppercorn and agretti in a flavor-packed broth. For dessert, go for the soy-sauce caramel sundae or chocolate tart. 

Little Fish
Cuisine: American

Once itinerant, Anna Sonenshein and Niki Vahle now welcome guests to their Echo Park location where they share space with a mini market. Come for breakfast or lunch—both are delicious. As their name suggests, the menu is seafood-focused, but steak and vegetarian offerings are also on offer. Mornings are met with items like fish tartines and fish and mushroom congee, while lunch features heartier sandwiches like their signature fried fish. The beer-battered Pacific striped bass is tender and sweet, then topped with American cheese, kewpie mayo and dill pickles on a potato bun for a midday meal that is as satisfying as they come. Not a fan of fish? The broccoli rabe melt with kabocha squash spread, provolone piccante cheese, and chili garlic is a standout. 

Liu's Cafe
Cuisine: Chinese

Liu's Cafe is just the sort of casual spot you'll come to again and again. Arrive early, as seats fill quickly, then order at the wood counter, where you'll get a sneak peek into the bustling kitchen. You'll also spy their selection of pastries, which definitely shouldn't be overlooked. Order the house-made pork wontons for a tender, tasty treat, and be sure to get the extra egg noodles to soak up that wonderfully kicky chili oil. Braised pork belly rice is another dish of pure comfort, and no matter what you have, everything is complemented by a pot of tea, such as the milk oolong. Finally, the pastries grab attention from the very beginning and closing out with a dessert like the citrus curd tart with shaved fennel salad is everything you want it to be.

Mae Malai Thai House of Noodles
Cuisine: Thai

Just a short walk from their original food stall, this restaurant's strip mall digs are simple but it's a comfortable, welcoming spot with a tempting menu to boot. As the name suggests, their specialty is noodles, particularly boat noodles with a thick, intense broth and your choice of pork or beef, noodle type, and spice level. Fret not if you can't decide, as the bowls are small and ordering two or more varieties might just be the perfect compromise. Don't skip out on their stir-fried dishes, such as the boldly spiced chili holy basil with ground pork, bell peppers, and green beans. For dessert, choose from coconut ice cream or kanom tuay, a two-layer custard featuring a green layer infused with fresh pandan leaf, and a white layer with coconut.

Manohar’s Delhi Palace
Cuisine: Indian

Manohar's Delhi Palace is a mainstay thanks to their delicious Punjabi cuisine, and there's a welcoming vibe about this place, where the waitstaff is especially friendly and attentive. Indicative of its north Indian focus, the food here leans on the milder side, so don't expect an onslaught of spices. Order à la carte or go all in on the tandoori dinner but be sure to get an order of the samosas, fried to a perfect crisp with that comforting filling of potatoes and peas. Chicken tikka masala features a generous amount of tender and juicy chicken that's skewered and seared before being added to the vibrant sauce. For dessert, the gulab jamun is a clear winner.

Pollo a la Brasa
Cuisine: Peruvian

Peruvian in Koreatown? You bet, at least at this family-owned and run spot that has been at it for more than thirty years. Expect a casual neighborhood restaurant that's a touch warm on the inside from the heat of the live-fire cooking. All of the chicken is cooked over a wood fire that you can smell a block away and delivers smoky meat with a crispy skin that's marinated with their family secret. While there are a few options on the menu, make sure that you order the chicken by itself, or choose from their sides, but don't skip their twice-fried French fries and consider ordering a second container of their spicy green aji sauce.

Quarter Sheets
Cuisine: Pizza

Aaron Lindell and Hannah Ziskin's Quarter Sheets Pizza has nailed that haute hipster vibe with its casual styling and vinyl and cassette collection. The word is out on this Echo Park spot, so expect a wait, but one bite of their inch-thick, pan-style pizzas makes it all worth your while. Baked to order, they're prepared with flavorful sauce and quality ingredients. Pepperoni is a classic choice, or opt for the pimento grove, a vodka sauced pizza topped with olives, 'nduja and cheese. And, while you might not expect to get serious pastries at a pizza shop, don't leave without trying at least one of Hannah Ziskin's pastries. There are a few offerings that rotate often but the signature Princess cake is a staple that's worth every bite.

Santa Ana

Lola Gaspar
Cuisine: Mexican

This gastropub in downtown Santa Ana isn't new but a post-pandemic reset and a trip to Mexico changed Chef Luis Perez's mindset—and menu. It's all about quality over quantity here, so expect a tightly edited menu featuring tacos, quekas, and churros, but it's all very good. Happy hour discounts make sampling it all a tempting proposition.

Tacos are made with handmade flour tortillas topped with a grilled tomato and dried chili salsa and filled with everything from sauteed shrimp to pork shank carnitas and suadero. Quekas feature hand-pressed masa and are served with a habanero salsa. While the vegan mushroom queka is worth ordering by itself with nicely sauteed mushrooms, confit potatoes, and guacamole, you can also opt to add cheese for a wonderful addition.

Hero image: Emma K Creative / Molti Amici
Thumb image: Grá