At last count, there are more than 23,000 restaurants in New York City. It’s a lot of eating to determine the best of the best, but our intrepid Inspectors are always up to the task. As always, they have pounded the pavement in search of the standouts places worthy of your hard-earned downtime and dollars. Even with so many meals under their belts, several dishes had them swooning. Curious to know which ones have them hankering for a return visit? Herewith, our Inspectors’ favorites in New York this year.
Koloman
Fennel Tagliatelle
This modern dish of tagliatelle infused with confit fennel and accompanied by smoked brook trout, vermouth and caviar is memorable. Slight anise notes seasoned the pasta—very intriguing and surprising.
HAGS
Summer Sausage
A perfect disc of bouncy summer sausage with a slight sour note (from fermentation) and plenty of warm spices—it was packed with flavor. The saffron aioli added a luxurious note and paired well with the braised Sea Island red beans. It delivered an excellent contrast in flavor and texture.
Meju
Kimchi with Rice
On looks alone, this course could seem mundane: a bowl of rice, a single pan-fried egg on another plate, and in a bowl, kimchi stew with two blocks of pork belly. But, the rice is Korean and is shipped over as brown rice and then milled here. The egg is from Yellow Bell Farms. The combination is wonderful: the intensity of the 6-year aged kimchi, the spice from the broth, the fudgy, cheese-like umami of the yolk. Chef said that this was the first course his mentor ever served him and that it's his favorite. A heartfelt dish that works in a beautiful way.
Agi’s Counter
Tuna Melt
Remember the tuna melt? Well, it’s back and in prime form at this easy-going Brooklyn nook. Confit tuna melt packed onto thick, buttered, fluffy, griddled Pullman Bread – the bread was so light, airy and satisfying. Served with excellent French mustard, house pickles and slaw.
Torrisi
Cavatelli with Jamaican Beef Ragu
These tender little dumplings are dressed with a Jamaican beef ragu sauced with reduced beef jus and spiced with Scotch bonnet pepper. The heat was noticeable but very enjoyable. An absolutely original dish that was impressively prepared. The plate of pasta was dusted with a bit of grated Parmesan. Delicious!
Foul Witch
Veal Tortellini Sauced with Amaretto
Elegant and refined; perfectly formed pockets of pasta filled with a finely ground veal brilliantly sauced with a slightly reduced brodo with the distinct flavor of Amaretto.
KRU
Beef Tongue Curry
Deep maroon in color, flecked with crushed and ground spices; shaved slices of tongue were almost gelatinous; and the curry also contained chopped heart of palm and wedges of small glove green eggplant.
Hero image: Scott Frances/Torrisi
Thumbnail: Courtesy of Torrisi
