Stefano Secchi knows a thing or two about pasta. Since debuting his cozy Italian restaurant, Rezdôra, in Flatiron six years ago, the chef—who built upon his time at Modena’s Three MICHELIN Star Osteria Francescana—has earned One MICHELIN Star for his superior spaghetti skills which highlight regional Emilia-Romagna technique and recipes.
In June, the chef debuted his sophomore effort Massara, which highlights the cuisine of yet another Italian region, southern Italy’s Campania. The earthy-toned trattoria claims a renovated three-story town house just a stone’s throw from Rezdôra, offering 105 seats and two bars split between the ground floor and second-story dining rooms.
Here, one will find wood-fueled Italian cookery via mini Neapolitan pies, or “pizzette” dressed with tomatoes, anchovies, and capers, and of course many more pastas—both dry and fresh—that pay tribute to the region, honoring ingredients like Naples’ San Marzano tomatoes, and the whimsically named “If pasta fredda was eaten in Amalfi;” a dish of cold spaghetti tossed with an almond cream, sea urchin, Sicilian red shrimp, and more. Just a few meat and fish proteins, like a whole branzino with a lemon zabaglione, round out the menu, with desserts—such as the classic clam shell-looking Sfogliatella with fig, pistachio, and citron fillings—and wines all honoring the region.
Below, we caught up with Secchi to get the full scoop on what diners can expect from his newest effort—including his ancient pizza starter.
How did Massara come to be?
While eating tortellini in brodo with my family outside of Bologna was the reason I moved to Emilia-Romagna to cook, Massara honors the food I grew up eating. The first chef at my father’s restaurant in Italy was from the Campania/Calabria border, and I spent a lot of time there as a young boy. Those flavors are very nostalgic…I wanted to bring an authenticity to the region's food I grew up eating.
Why did you choose to open this restaurant now?
Part of the reason we do this is to bring an authenticity to cibo Italiano executed at a high level with the absolute best Italian ingredients we can buy. We wanted to celebrate the regions of Campania-Salerno, Benevento, Avellino, Caserta, and Napoli, which all have different traditions, and food is always central to that. I also have a lievito madre, our starter that I brought back with my family after fishing in Campania when I was really young (around 8 or 9 years old), which is the base of our pizzette.
How do Rezdôra and Massara complement each other?
The two regions are very different but share some key ingredients that are a focus in Italian food: Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano, Mozzarella di Bufala, and regional extra-virgin olive oils. Our goals at each space are to take two to three ingredients on the plate and manipulate and transform them to reinforce the flavors via pureés, powders, oils, and different cooking techniques. We've built that approach at Rezdôra and carry it out at Massara.
Tell us about the decision to highlight regional cuisines.
I believe that true, authentic Italian food is regional and there are 20 different regions in Italia that, if studied, can be the base of incredible food and experiences. That's what we do right, try to build on these taste memories to make people happy when they join us.
How do you plan to split your time between the two restaurants?
The main reason we opened where we did is the two spaces are a one-minute walk from each other. I am literally able to be at both places the same night consistently. I feel so fortunate to be cooking the food of these two incredible regions in the best city in the world with co-workers whom I believe are some of the most talented and likeable people …it's pretty surreal!
What should future customers know about your drinks program?
Massara’s wine program, led by Michael Duffy, highlights Italian wines from Tuscany to the south of Italy including wines from Sardinia, Campagna, and Sicily. The cocktail menu, designed by Morgan Marak, is centered around southern amaros and the plentiful citrus and herbs that grow along the sunny coastline of Southern Italy.
Your dining rooms take up the restaurant's ground level and second floor. But there’s a third—what’s up there?
Ha, everyone asks that! We aren't saying much yet…
How are you feeling right now, post opening?
I'm always on edge, always looking at ways to push ourselves and get better, keeping our head down. Admittedly, we have had a fairly decent couple of opening weeks, but there are many ways to improve. New York is crazy though. People want to be the first to write and review as soon as possible, so we had online reviewers show up the first day at 5:15 p.m. I believe in giving a place two to three months at least, but la vita è cosi.
What’s a pro tip to dining at Massara?
Try Caffe Sospeso on the dessert menu: order one coffee but pay for two. We will then give the next coffee to the next order that comes in, to share the beautiful gesture and spread a bit of pay it forward culture.
Hero image: Alex Staniloff / Massara
