Many beloved Taiwanese dishes are rooted in the heritage of generations past, carrying not just flavor but stories of family, culture, and care. At the heart of three Bib Gourmand restaurants featured in the MICHELIN Guide Taiwan, family ties run deep. Each is co-run by a mother and child, working hand-in-hand to preserve and evolve beloved recipes that continue to warm hearts and satisfy appetites, decade after decade.
Chang Ying Seafood House: A Mother-Daughter Duo Serving the Flavors of the Land
In Beimen, Tainan, Chang Ying Seafood House brings the nostalgic taste of milkfish dishes to life. The restaurant is run by Hsieh Jia Sin and her mother, Huang Yun Ching (hero image: ©Chang Ying Seafood House) , a close-knit team who push each other constantly in the kitchen. "We’re more like business partners," says 25-year-old Hsieh, with a laugh. “Every morning before we start, I tell her, ‘Let’s have a great collaboration today.’” It’s both a daily ritual and a reflection of their enduring partnership.
One of their signature dishes, Braised Pork with Milkfish, is inspired by old fishing village tradition. “Back in the day, milkfish was salted and sun-dried to preserve it, then braised with pork that was usually reserved for worship offerings,” explains Hsieh. They've adapted the dish by using aged milkfish, enhancing its umami while preserving the flavors and stories of the past.
Beyond cooking, the mother-daughter team also promotes food education. Guests can explore the local fishpond ecosystem and learn about nose-to-tail usage — from feeding grouper with fish heads to turning scales into liquid fertilizer. “My mom is my best partner,” Hsieh says. “She’s taught me to treat every dish and every customer with care.” Through food, they hope to share their family’s love and heritage with the world.
Ciao Zai Tou Huang’s Braised Pork Rice (Ciaotou): Four Generations of Flavor and Heart
In 1952, Huang Chun-Chieh's grandfather brought the taste of his hometown from Lukang, Changhua, to Ciaotou, Kaohsiung, setting up a humble market stall serving cabbage and pork thick soup. Four decades later, his mother, Huang Chen-Yu-Hsia, took over and introduced braised pork rice — a dish that was soon widely loved by the crowd.
At 28, Chun-Chieh joined the family business, leaving behind his career in printing. Under his mother’s meticulous guidance, he learned every step firsthand. “She was tougher on me than on the staff,” he laughs. Each day began at 4 a.m. with a visit to the wet market to hand-pick fresh pork, a non-negotiable practice his mother upheld. “You have to select every ingredient yourself to know if it’s up to standard,” he says.
Their signature braised pork is a labor of love, simmered for 21 hours. While Chun-Chieh once considered cutting corners, he quickly realized the magic lay in doing things the hard way — their way. "I once did something really dumb," he says with a laugh. "I thought my mom’s method was too slow, so I tried to simplify it — but the flavor was totally off." His mother was not impressed. “She reminded me that taste is subjective,” he adds. “Someone might love it today and not like it tomorrow. All we can do is keep the quality consistent.”
Chun-Chieh says there are no shortcuts when it comes to preserving a craft. Everything — from seasonal temperature changes to subtle differences in pork — takes years of observation and careful judgment. It’s only by staying true to each step that their unique flavor lives on.
Though his mother officially passed on the reins five years ago, she still stops by to taste and offer guidance. Now 52, Chun-Chieh stays true to her values. There are no digital menus here, just one-on-one service and heartfelt hospitality. “Efficiency matters,” he says, “But never at the expense of warmth.” The flavor that fills the market comes from more than just the food — it’s the story of a family, their roots, and the bond that carries their traditions forward.
Yi Wei Pin: A Mother and Son Team that Safeguards the Soul of Tainan’s Comfort Food
At Yi Wei Pin, the aroma of steaming rice pudding and fragrant fish thick soup stirs up memories of childhood for many in Tainan. Behind these dishes is a devoted duo: Wu Ming-Hsien and his mother, Wu Chen-Chin-Hsiu.
Ming-Hsien began learning his craft in vocational school, inheriting his grandfather’s and uncle’s rice pudding recipe, while his mother specialized in fish soup. Each morning at 2:30 a.m., he grinds aged rice into batter, carefully managing the heat and speed to prevent clumping. “Cooking the rice slurry is the trickiest part,” he says. “It took two or three years before my uncle fully trusted me with the technique.”
Over a decade ago, the mother and son duo opened Yi Wei Pin together — she runs the front, and he oversees the kitchen. Their days are long, often stretching past 5 p.m., but the work is powered by pride and perseverance. “There’s no fallback plan in this line of work,” Ming-Hsien says. “You put your heart into every bite.”
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Their signature dish uses rice aged for over two years, ground into a fine paste, and paired with house-braised ground pork sauce, slow-braised pork, and hand-cut pork loin. His mother continues to test rice each year to ensure quality. “Behind this simple dish is a mountain of effort,” he says.
Though she’s now 72, his mother still visits daily to “check in on things,” as Ming-Hsien puts it affectionately. “People think elders should retire, but I just want her to stay healthy and happy. If she feels up to it, she’s always welcome in the shop.” More than just a taste of the past, their food is a living expression of devotion between generations, family, and community.
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The article is written by Jenna Yang. Read the original article here.
