Proudly by-the-book, chef Philippe Peretti’s French cooking has been a feature of the city since 1997, so why try and change it? The atmosphere, like the food, doesn’t sway into the innovative, and dark wood panels, mirrors and traditional furniture complete the dining room. But boredom never strikes, and dishes like Burgundy snails, pan-fried frog legs, onion soup, duck confit, and roasted pigeon are always done well. The lunch set menu is good value.