11 January 2019
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Three verdant lotus ponds, rich teak wood panelling and intricate Thai embellishments paint a picture of traditional luxury at the one-Michelin-starred Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin in Bangkok. But these simply set the stage for the modern Thai gastronomy created by renowned Danish chef Henrik Yde Anderson and presented by head chef, Chayawee “Berm” Sutcharichan.
The restaurant is the Bangkok outpost of Yde Anderson’s Kiin Kiin restaurant in Copenhagen, which also holds a Michelin star for its modern molecular take on Thai cuisine. At both restaurants, traditional Thai cooking is turned on its head — the flavours and ingredients are clearly recognisable, but the presentation and techniques used are distinctly avant garde.
The restaurant is the Bangkok outpost of Yde Anderson’s Kiin Kiin restaurant in Copenhagen, which also holds a Michelin star for its modern molecular take on Thai cuisine. At both restaurants, traditional Thai cooking is turned on its head — the flavours and ingredients are clearly recognisable, but the presentation and techniques used are distinctly avant garde.
“In Thai cuisine, there is not much technique to speak of. It’s all about flavour and balancing the five taste elements: sour, salty, sweet, bitter and spicy,” says Sutcharichan. “What we are doing is incorporating modern global techniques while maintaining the flavour and authentic ingredients of Thai cuisine.”
The Journey Begins
Sutcharichan likens the dining experience at Sra Bua to a journey. In fact, the 10-course tasting menu is called The Journey, starting with Thai street food-inspired snacks before working its way through a tour of Thailand’s most distinct flavours presented with modernist aplomb.
For example, traditional tom khlong soup is served with a grilled lobster head topped with red curry foam and fresh prawn sashimi on a prawn cracker; Pu pad phong karee, or yellow curry with crab, is presented as a fresh salad with yellow curry ice cream and celery foam.
The Journey Begins
Sutcharichan likens the dining experience at Sra Bua to a journey. In fact, the 10-course tasting menu is called The Journey, starting with Thai street food-inspired snacks before working its way through a tour of Thailand’s most distinct flavours presented with modernist aplomb.
For example, traditional tom khlong soup is served with a grilled lobster head topped with red curry foam and fresh prawn sashimi on a prawn cracker; Pu pad phong karee, or yellow curry with crab, is presented as a fresh salad with yellow curry ice cream and celery foam.
Dessert is the ubiquitous Mango With Sticky Rice, but made for Instagram. “Everybody knows mango sticky rice, but we make it more fun to serve and eat,” says the chef. Sticky rice, sweet, ripe mango and a quenelle of mango sorbet sit in a glass topped with a cloud of cotton candy. This is served with a little pitcher of warm coconut cream to pour into the glass before eating.
A Theatre Experience From Start To End
The chef shares that it was an uphill battle at first; introducing modern Thai cooking to a local market that was so proud of its culinary heritage. “At the beginning, most of the guests we had were local and they did not expect Thai cuisine to be served the way we did, but as time went on, people started to understand the concept and we now also have a younger generation of customers who come with an open mind to experience a new way of Thai food.”
A Theatre Experience From Start To End
The chef shares that it was an uphill battle at first; introducing modern Thai cooking to a local market that was so proud of its culinary heritage. “At the beginning, most of the guests we had were local and they did not expect Thai cuisine to be served the way we did, but as time went on, people started to understand the concept and we now also have a younger generation of customers who come with an open mind to experience a new way of Thai food.”
One of the ways he’s changing the perception of modern Thai cuisine is by taking the time to interact with his guests personally; to educate foreign visitors about the original Thai inspiration or to speak to locals about the modern techniques he’s used to elevate the dish. “I love talking to the guests about the meal and explaining the food. It’s all part of the journey, the theatre experience you get in the restaurant.”
He acknowledges that with shifting times and the advent of modern technology, it is important that the guests’ experience begins well before they even step into the restaurant. “Platforms like Chope allow guests to explore a restaurant, make an instant reservation 24/7 and begin communicating their preferences or food restrictions with us,” says the chef. “So the journey is smooth from the very beginning, as soon as they are keen to explore a restaurant, to when they decide to make a reservation until they walk in through the doors. The whole dining experience from start to finish is streamlined and that’s most important for us: creating a seamlessly delightful dining experience.
