At only 27 years old, Singaporean Mathew Leong has made his mark in the culinary world as head chef of two-MICHELIN-Starred RE-NAA in Norway. He also holds the position of group executive chef for the other restaurants under the brand.
Leong recognises that while his position as head chef for a two-MICHELIN-Starred restaurant holds a certain level of prestige, there is a lot of hard work that comes with the title. "To me, this is my job," he says. "It is my responsibility to ensure that the kitchen operations run smoothly everyday, during each and every service. Just like everyone on the team, we want to ensure that our guests have the best experience at RE-NAA."
Carving the path to his culinary journey
Having spent his childhood doing various sports, including swimming and taekwondo, Leong has always been steadfast and hardworking when it comes to his commitments, learning the importance of self-discipline and staying focused at a very young age. He received his black belt in taekwondo when he was five years old and now holds a second-degree black belt.
When he turned 13, Leong had his first brush with the culinary arts, under his teachers' recommendations. "I took part in my first culinary competition when I was in secondary school, and I won my first gold," he reminisces. Leong then started to compete in more culinary contests; one of which was judged by celebrity chef Jimmy Chok.
"Even though I did not emerge as champion, Chef Jimmy Chok saw the potential in me and offered me the chance to spend a day with him in his restaurant's kitchen," says Leong. "This experience ignited my passion to be a chef and to achieve culinary excellence. I’d say that if it’s not for the opportunity given to me by him, I would not be where I am today, embarking on this culinary journey."
On top of the valuable opportunity provided to him by Chok, the experience from competing in culinary competitions in secondary school sparked Leong's interest in gastronomy. "After competing in so many competitions, it made me realise that I really do enjoy cooking and am always driven to create new and unique dishes," he says.
On training the palate
"While it is true that some people naturally have a better palate than others, we can all train to improve our them," says Leong when asked about how he found his definition of good taste. "Learning to recognise and differentiate flavour profiles help to develop our palates; and as a chef, it is important to have good food knowledge and an expert palate."
Upon graduating with a diploma in Culinary Arts, Leong went on to work in many established hotels and restaurants in Singapore such as The Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore and MICHELIN-listed Tippling Club before his big move to Norway.
Growing up, Leong shares that his favourite food has always been his mother's home-cooked food. "She’s a great cook, and she can whip up really amazing dishes from various cuisines including Cantonese, Western, and Japanese," he says fondly. According to Leong, his mother holds a huge influence in his culinary journey. "My mum started showing me cooking techniques when I was young. I’d always help her in the kitchen when she cooks for the family. She does Cantonese cuisine really well, and she has taught me how to make many of its dishes. Some of the food my mum has imparted her skills to me are Hong Kong style steamed fish, as well as fried scallion beef," says Leong. As someone who enjoys eating out rather than cooking at home, Leong shares that on the rare occasion that he gets to cook at home, he enjoys whipping up these dishes himself for a taste of home.
According to Leong: "Most of the food we eat is a combination of different flavours; hence it is important to learn to recognise it through the taste and smell. For me, I train and improve my palate by trying new and exotic food whenever I travel; trying the culture's local food, which I have never eaten before," shares Leong.
After his one-year stint at RE-NAA, Leong was back in Singapore to work for a short period of time. It was during this season in his life when Ulrik Jepsen of MICHELIN-listed À L'aise in Norway offered Leong the role as Chef de Partie. Within three years, Leong rose up through the ranks and was promoted to Head Chef.
“One way to 'reset' your palate is to constantly try new flavours and textures, training the taste buds to recognise new tastes and combinations.”
"After spending close to 7 years in Norway, working in different restaurants, I have established my style of cuisine as Nordic with Asian flavours," shares Leong. "My design and culinary philosophy when creating dishes is that everything on the plate has to be 'clean' in terms of style and flavour. To me, sauces hold an important component in providing that extra flavour to the food; hence, I placed huge emphasis on creating my sauces for dishes I make."
Leong professes that he is hungry for innovation; finding different ways to reconstruct nature into different textures and forms in order to showcase the best of each and every ingredient used in the dishes he makes. "My main inspiration stems from the nature and the architecture around me," he says. "I am always thinking of ways to recreate them into food."
“My background as a Singaporean has definitely influenced my work. Whenever I create a dish, I’d always make sure to infuse Asian flavours into them.”
The return to RE-NAA
When asked what made him return to RE-NAA, Leong says that the opportunity just happened to come at the right time. "It was already in the plan to leave A’Laise and move on after competing in the Bocuse d’Or Final 2021 late last year," he says.
"When I was in Lyon to compete last September, Sven Erik Renaa, chef-owner of RE-NAA was there, too. We got the chance to catch up after not seeing each other for years. At that point of time, I hadn't found a new job and did share with him my plans after competing in the Bocuse d’Or Final 2021. After the competition, when I came back to Oslo, he offered me a role at his restaurant as the head chef at RE-NAA," explains Leong.
“I accepted it without second thought — not because of the level of prestige that comes with my job title and workplace, but because seven years ago, Chef Sven Erik Renaa took a chance on me. He was the one who gave me a lifetime opportunity to move to Norway and take up the role as Chef de Partie at RE-NAA when I was only 21 years old.”
Leong recalls that after completing his National Service responsibilities in Singapore, he sent over 100 resumes to restaurants around the world. RE-NAA was one of the three restaurants that responded to him. "I am immensely grateful for the opportunity chef Renaa has given to me, his collective mentorship, and the role he played in the growth I had experienced during my one-year stint at RE-NAA when I first started out my culinary journey in Norway," says Leong.
Life as a young Singaporean chef in Norway
"To be honest, the way people dine in Norway and Singapore is pretty similar — we love our food a lot, and we do know how to enjoy it when it comes to eating," shares Leong. "While Singaporeans like us can’t live without rice, the Norwegians really love their bread a lot. They can have it not just for breakfast, but for lunch and dinner as well."
Rather than experiencing a culture shock, Leong says that he was very amused to see how much fish and salmon people in Norway eat. "Norway is world-famous for its fish. Besides smoking and grilling the fish, the locals also transform fish into cakes, and soups," he adds.
However, compared to Singapore, the pace of life in Norway is a lot slower, but in a good way. "It was quite a bit of a challenge to adapt when I first moved to Norway as I was already so used to the fast-paced society in Singapore," he says. "But what I love about Norway is that the country is naturally beautiful. The first time I was in Norway, I remember I was visibly struck by the sheer beauty of my surroundings. Although it is normal to always experience episodes of rain and wind along the coast, the beautiful landscapes truly make up for it. During my break, I could also go to other cities for hiking and skiing."
Making his mark in the culinary world
"The road during the start of the journey may be tough, with many hurdles and challenges to overcome along the way, but perseverance and hard work will eventually pay off," says Leong. "Being in this industry is never easy; you have to undergo a lot of pressure, and a lot of your energy is spent in the long working hours. But if you are really passionate about it [being a chef], it is important that you create opportunities for yourself and not just wait for opportunities to come knocking on your door. Be courageous enough to step out of your comfort zone, because that’s how you will learn and grow," he advises.
“I always believe that tough times don’t last, tough people do. ”
Leong shares that his motto in life is that success will only come to those who work hard for it for themselves. "If you want to achieve something, you have to be prepared to be faced with challenges; strengthen your mindset to endure every struggle you encounter," he says. And to those who are doubting their decision to move overseas: "Always stay focused and driven. You have made this decision to move overseas for a purpose — so it is important that you stay disciplined and focused in order to achieve your goals and dreams."
On creating culinary history and building his dream restaurant
"Food is something that evokes my childhood memories, it’s about what makes us different and what makes us the same. Food is also the centrepiece of family gatherings; the glue that holds people together. My family and I enjoy eating a lot, and food is something that we love and have a lot to talk about during our meals together. Every time I am back in Singapore, I look forward to having a meal with my family — because this is the time where everyone gets to laugh and talk about anything, everything under the sun," says Leong.
When asked about the future, Leong says that he will be competing in the Bocuse d’Or 2025 Final. "My goal is to create history as the highest ranked Asian candidate and represent both Singapore and Asia to stand on the podium and showcase Asia’s culinary expertise to the world."
“Food is connected to all aspects of our life — from our cultural upbringing, to our relationships with others, and to our emotional nourishment.”
Leong shares his ideas for his dream restaurant. "My concept for my dream restaurant will be one that consists of three floors — with the ground floor being a casual restaurant like a bistro, while the second and third floors being occupied by my fine dining restaurant, with each level providing guests with a different experience and ambience," he describes.
Concept-wise, Leong says that the restaurant's goal is to give the guests only the best produce to create innovative dishes with interesting flavours, as well as providing the highest form of service to each guest that dines in the restaurant. "The restaurant will serve dishes that are Nordic with Asian flavours — this is highly influenced by the years of working in Norway, as well as my Asian background — the combination of flavours is a reflection of my identity, as well as the restaurant," adds Leong.
He also explains that the bistro component will also serve Nordic food with Asian flavours, but will be priced more affordable. He adds: "The aim is to have everyone dine there once or twice a week, on any day of the week. The menu will be based on seasonal ingredients, which will be sourced locally and availability, to ensure the best quality of produce to the guests."
"I’d love to open my first restaurant in Norway," Leong says proudly. "While I am based here in Norway currently, as a Singaporean, it’d be great to open another restaurant in my homeland as well before expanding my footprint across the region. After that, my next aim in my career is to own a fine dining restaurant that is listed in the MICHELIN Guide. My goal is to be one of the youngest chefs in the world to have achieved three MICHELIN Stars within three years of opening," he says with utmost hope and determination.
He adds, "My first restaurant will be special. I will dedicate it to my loved one. While I have yet to think of a name...," he pauses to think and then smiles. "It will definitely be inspired by both our names."
When was your first encounter with the MICHELIN Guide?
When I was working as Chef de Partie at RE-NAA when I was 21 years old.
What is your fondest memory at a MICHELIN-starred restaurant?
Two-MICHELIN-Starred Silvio Nickol in Vienna, Austria. They serve really excellent cooking that’s definitely worth a detour!
Who are the biggest influences in your life and your career?
My family and loved ones. They have been supporting me since day one and are my greatest pillar of support. Not forgetting, my mentor and boss Chef Sven Erik Renaa of RE-NAA. His achievements inspire me to work hard towards my goal of owning and establishing my own fine dining restaurants and a chain of bistros around the world someday.
How much influence has the MICHELIN Guide had on your career?
Through the years, we have seen how the MICHELIN Guide has been making a splash on the dining scene across the globe. To achieve the elusive stars, kitchens must basically operate like machinery — with every person working flawlessly in-sync, and there is definitely no room for errors. As easy as it may sound, getting a MICHELIN Star involves a lot of hard work, but the rewards are glorious.
Like athletes aiming to compete in the Olympics, my aim as a chef in a fine dining restaurant is to be recognised by the MICHELIN Guide. Plain and simple, a MICHELIN Star is the ultimate hallmark of culinary excellence, and is a badge of honour. Having the title "MICHELIN-Starred” recognition next to your restaurant is a major achievement in the culinary world. It implies that both the restaurant the head chef have been evaluated and deemed the best of the best.
What's the best part about your job?
Having the freedom to innovate and create new dishes using different seasonal products and ingredients. Everyday is a challenge; and at my job, I get to learn new things everyday. It’s amazing to see how food can be created in so many different ways with the same ingredients by leveraging technologies.
Over the decade, we have witnessed the evolution of food and how the next-generation ingredients, robotic appliances, novel cooking methods, and other technologies have the potential to fundamentally change what we eat and how we cook it. At my job, I have the opportunity to learn to utilise technology innovations in creating my food.
Three Singaporean hawker dishes that you miss the most?
Oyster Omelette, Hokkien Mee, Chilli Crab
What are your favourite MICHELIN-Starred restaurants in Singapore and what MICHELIN-Starred restaurants in Singapore are on your dining wish list?
I love Sommer and Summer Pavilion. My family and I love dining at Summer Pavilion, especially. Cantonese cuisine is something I really love and grew up eating a lot, and the food handcrafted by executive chef Cheung Siu Kong is really top-notch; not to forget the great ambience and atmosphere.
Where does Mathew Leong like to eat in Singapore?
Whenever I am back in Singapore, the first place I’d usually go to Long Beach at Dempsey. The restaurant serves really amazing chilli crab and salted egg crab — two dishes that truly provide a real taste of Singapore.
For fine dining, MICHELIN-Starred Summer Pavilion is another place I make it a point to visit whenever I am back in Singapore. Another reason why I love eating at Summer Pavilion is because I used to be a trainee at The Ritz Carlton Millenia Singapore back in 2012, during my younger days, so that place holds great memories for me.
Of course, I can’t forget our local food as well. I enjoy going to Newton Food Centre to eat some of Singapore’s famous local food such as BBQ Stingray, Satays, Char Kway Teow, Oyster Omelette, and Hokkien Mee.
What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef today?
My childhood ambition was to be a pilot. If I wasn't a chef today, I would be working towards attaining my pilot licence.
