In between masterclasses, tastings and food- and, yes, music-pairing sessions of 2004’s zesty Chardonnay-forward vintage, we catch her for a conversation and get to know the woman who wants to change the way we drink Champagne.
I am based in Paris now. So, I wake up at 5.50am in the morning and I go to bed at 2am. Normally I do this because I want the time. I leave home at 6.40am on my bicycle and I take the train and arrive in Reims to the office. I might visit the team at the working house or have meetings for projects. I bring a salad for lunch and I go home at 7pm. I might go to the gym or cycle. When I ride on my bike I feel like I am on vacation. I love this small city where I can bike and see everything. Then I go home after 9pm and have dinner and spend time with my husband and work or read until 2am and I go to sleep and the day starts again!
What I’m most proud of is the big transformation of the House. It was so dusty, literally, and fading out and had no energy but now it is completely transformed into a brand full of light and life and future. In actuality, nothing has changed, the Champagnes have always been this way long before I arrived at the House. This is a case of how good communication can build a brand. It was already a wonderful product that just had to be communicated well. What I have been most proud of is to be able to release and unleash all the beauty of this House that was always there.
Yes perfectly! Growing up we had a large house and we had lots of people working in the house. And I remember at Christmas we would gather together all the family and people who worked in our house and my father used to prepare a special word for everyone to thank them. It was always a very emotional moment for me because it was a moment of gratitude. I am a very grateful person and I think this is the key for life. At the end of this, my father would open a bottle of Moet & Chandon. I was 11 that year and I convinced my father to let me try it. I remember saying: “Papi, you know kids in Europe they drink wine, so I can have a sip to celebrate Christmas!” and he let me have that sip and since then I have always loved Champagne. I would never imagine that one day I would close my career in a House like Krug.
You cannot have good Champagne without good wine. Winemaking is such a careful, long process and by the end of it all, after 8 years of sleeping to let the wine fully express its flavours, it’s like the musicians are all ready to play their symphony and you put it in a champagne flute and block out half the orchestra. You might hear only a third of it! The glass is the concert hall. It is the instrument that allows you to discover the beauty of the Champagne! Now, if you put Champagne in a good white wine glass, you will discover all of its beauty and what goes into it.
When is a good time for drinking Champagne?
Once we take Champagne out of the flute, we also bring it out from its association as just a celebratory drink. Champagne can give you everything without bothering you with tannins and when you talk about food, like Japanese or Chinese food that is full of complexity and flavour, Champagne is the perfect match. And when you have a good Champagne like Krug, the fine bubbles don’t get in the way at all. You can have a full dining experience with Champagne pairings and people don’t know that. We want to change the impression that Champagne is only a celebratory drink, and let people know that you can always have a bottle at home, and have it with lunch or dinner.