In late 2015, a year after the South Korean chef landed here for a secondment at chef Tetsuya Wakuda’s Waku Ghin, he struck out on his own to open Meta in Keong Saik Road. The contemporary Asian restaurant went on to receive one Michelin star this year.
For his showcase dish in the gala dinner, he creatively fuses elements of bibimbap (Korean mixed rice), which is his favourite childhood dish, with one of Singapore’s must-eat dishes, chilli crab. He recalls fondly: “I had my first chilli crab with Rishi Naleendra (of Cheek By Jowl) at No Signboard Seafood when he first came to Singapore too and I also enjoy eating the dish with my wife, who is a Singaporean.”
To create a dish that “bursts with local flavours”, the umami tosaka seaweed-simmered rice is served with his version of sambal, a moreish concoction of dried shrimp, lemongrass, chilli and curry leaves — a recipe that he picked up from his Malaysia-born sous chef Emson Guan.
Bibimbap is one of the most famous dishes in South Korea and I grew up on the Korean mixed rice dish since I was young. Chilli crab is one of the first dishes that I had in Singapore, so it is a memorable dish for me. I also enjoy eating chilli crab whenever I go out with my wife. So I thought, “Why not I make my version of chilli crab?”, by combining it with the idea of bibimbap and sambal.
First, I make a stock with dashi and Korean seaweed. Then, I cook the rice with the stock and steam the Alaskan king crab. I place the rice in the middle of the bowl, top it with tosaka seaweed for some umami and texture, and crab meat. I also sprinkle some salted egg yolk to add some creaminess to the dish. I serve the dish with a Peranakan-style sambal. To eat this dish, one needs to mix and toss everything in the bowl like in a bibimbap.
How is this dish representative of your cooking style at Meta?
Whenever I create a new dish, I always look at the past and think about what I enjoyed eating in Singapore and during my travels. I try to recreate something new with classic flavours, which is in line with the modern Asian cuisine that I do in Meta.