Winner of the 2022 MICHELIN Seoul Young Chef Award

Congratulations on winning the 2022 MICHELIN Seoul Young Chef Award.
I wasn't expecting this at all. I realized it belatedly only after receiving the award at the MICHELIN Star Revelation event. When I heard the announcement that this award is given to one who looks to the future, I felt grateful and responsible at the same time, as it's an award that propels me to do better. It gave me the conviction to believe in myself even more, and on the other hand, it was also an opportunity to think about how to run a restaurant and develop it better in the future, and to look back on the time that has passed. This is as meaningful for us – chef Kwon and me – as the first time we were selected as a MICHELIN Star restaurant last year.

Who did you share your joy with after receiving this award?
Chef Kwon Young-woon, who runs this restaurant with me. Although it is given to individuals, I feel this award is not only mine, but Mitou’s, because each of us have been doing our best in each other's roles while running this restaurant. And I would like to thank my parents who are helping me both physically and mentally! We can almost think of this restaurant’s operations as ‘family business’ (laughs). There were many congratulatory messages from our guests-turned-friends and close chefs, but I couldn’t express my gratitude to all properly yet.

What's an important attitude for a young chef?
Focus on improvement in every way, by making today better than yesterday. This is a must for me, too. Efforts never betray you. If you couldn't do it yesterday, you can do it again today, and even if you can't, you can do it again tomorrow. It may be a common saying, but I don't think there's anything that can't be achieved if you don’t polish it. I've also been doing it so far with the thought of ‘do it until you can.’ To do that, you have to have a mind that doesn't tire of steady achievement.

What's the dish that reflects the spirit of a young chef?
It's one of the degustation dishes, hassun (八寸). It refers to a variety of dishes in a box of 24cm length and breadth, and in the convention of Japanese cuisine, it is usually a cold dish platter filled with various forms and rules that can be prepared in advance.

I wanted to change the perception that what looks good may not follow through in the taste. I wanted to convey the seasonal feeling to our diners without any explanation by using proper ingredients rather than showing various types of visually good food. Rather than simply filling in the number of dishes, I wanted to give diversity by cooking dishes that are much more complicated, and different ways of eating, such as eating with spoons or hands, as well as with different recipes or chopsticks. We are applying a variety of ideas to excite your senses, such as making the scent stronger, and making cold food colder and hot food hotter through contrasting temperatures.

In order to prepare various menus at the same time, chefs working in busy kitchen situations must work more efficiently and perfectly, and we need to adapt to various situations. We can’t make our guests wait too long. That's why I think I can express a lot of comprehensive aspects such as my thoughts, cooking skills, seasonality and adaptability.

Where do you learn from?
While working as a chef, I learn from the many craftsmen and professionals I have met. I am in awe of not only chefs but also fishermen, farmers, potters and others who have been steadily walking on the same path for decades – I have a desire to emulate them. That's what I felt when I named the restaurant Mitou, which means our work is still in progress. It is also a great stimulus to me that my mentor chefs when I studied and worked in Japan nine years ago still remain at their positions.

What have you realized along the way?
Even if it looks trivial, it has its own significance. When I was an apprentice in Japan, my first routine at the beginning of the day was to make tea for my seniors. At that time, I thought it was a bit annoying when I was told to do so, but I repeated the same thing every single day throughout the seasons, so I naturally understood the tastes of my seniors and didn't have to ask them what they wanted. Now that I think about it, my chef intended for me to learn the mindset of the other person. These trivial things built the basics of my hospitality. What I do from the bottom seems trivial and meaningless, but I learned that what I do with my heart and do my best at every moment makes me better in the future.

We’re curious about your future direction and aspirations.
Like the name of the restaurant, I'm still ‘not yet arrived.’ All the achievements so far are just processes, not results. Big directions and aspirations are good, but I will do my best for our guests who come every day. I think doing your best every day can make a better tomorrow. If you do that, won't you be able to achieve it someday?

After receiving this award, what do you want to say to junior chefs?
It's important to build up from the bottom, to establish a solid base. What you gain will not go to waste. Rather than thinking of chasing after the splendor or comfort in front of you right now, you may wish to build up the basics silently. Character or philosophy can exist in anyone, but effort and experience must be supported in order to develop them properly.

This Article is written in Korean and English by Julia Lee and sub-edited by June Lee in English.