Making waves with its Korean ingredient-focused tasting menu, EVETT earned its first MICHELIN star in 2020, just a year after opening in 2019, with its owner-chef winning the Young Chef Award. The restaurant has maintained this prestigious accolade until now, in 2024, and is celebrated for its unique fusion of heritage and creativity. With a background that includes stints at The French Laundry, a MICHELIN three-star restaurant in the US, and The Ledbury, a MICHELIN three-star restaurant in England, the Australian-born chef emphasizes how working with local suppliers has deeply influenced his approach to 'cultural integration and innovation'—a cornerstone of EVETT’s philosophy.
Joseph Lidgerwood’s culinary approach has always been to bring out the essence of fine ingredients. He believes that firsthand experience with the produce and visiting the farms is essential. To him, true culinary artistry involves skillfully aligning with nature's seasons and consistently prioritizing quality over profit.
"I find real inspiration in getting out and meeting the people behind the ingredients and hearing their stories. From there, we blend techniques we've learned throughout our careers and intertwine them into a dish," he shares. He fondly recalls the pivotal moment when he immersed himself in the world of jang, a fundamental element of Korean cuisine.
In his inaugural year, Lidgerwood had the serendipitous fortune of crossing paths with Kisoondo, a Jang artisan. Now 74 years old, Kisoondo, the 10th eldest daughter-in-law of the head house of Ko's family in Damyang-gun and Traditional Food Master No. 35, has faithfully preserved the time-honored flavors each year. Her recipes, steeped in tradition, have been passed down through generations for over 370 years, ensuring that the rich culinary heritage continues to thrive.
To explore their unique relationship and collaborative journey, Chef Lidgerwood and Kisoondo discuss their inspirations, challenges, and the profound impact of their work on Korean cuisine. Their narrative reveals how deep local ties and sustainable practices elevate their culinary creations, underscoring the harmony between tradition and modernity in their exceptional dishes.
We delve into an intimate interview with the owner-chef, Joseph Lidgerwood, and his behind-the-scenes supplier, to uncover the essence of his culinary approach: the importance of fine ingredients.
How did your collaboration begin? Tell us the story of your first meeting.
Chef Lidgerwood: Our collaboration started in 2019 when I was introduced to the intricate world of jang through Kisoondo. Her expertise and passion for fermentation were immediately evident, and I knew that partnering with her would be transformative for EVETT.
Artisan Kisoondo: Our first meeting took place at the home of Artisan Hong Ssang-ri in Gwangyang. It was arranged that a foreign chef would personally cook and serve a meal for three artisans: Artisan Hong Ssang-ri, Artisan Park Soon-ae, and myself. Despite the cold weather, I was curious to see how this blue-eyed foreign chef, who was diligently cooking in a short-sleeved shirt outdoors, would fare. This initial encounter blossomed into a meaningful connection, leading Chef Joseph to visit my janggo (a traditional Korean sauce storage room) in Changpyeong, Damyang County, where we ended up making jang together.
Can you describe your first project together and how it influenced your relationship?
Chef Lidgerwood: Our first major project was a deep dive into jang-making. I vividly remember splitting menu blocks and separating soy sauce by hand. After three months, Kisoondo called me in a hurry, excited about the unique flavor of the doenjang. She attributed it to my involvement, saying it was the flavor of my hands. This moment showed me the depth of her knowledge and her sensitivity to even the slightest changes.
Artisan Kisoondo: I was both proud and eager to teach when I saw a foreign chef taking such a keen interest in jang and wanting to learn how to make it. Working together, I found him to be incredibly enthusiastic and diligent. The crucial steps in making jang involve fermenting the meju(block of fermented soybeans) blocks and aging the jang in jars, processes that are heavily influenced by the surrounding microorganisms. When fermenting meju, we hang it with woven rice straw, which contains Bacillus subtilis, a bacterium found in dry grass. Moreover, the mindset, dedication, and attitude of the person making the jang are vital. I was pleasantly surprised by the jang in Joseph's jar, which developed a flavor reminiscent of cheese and tasted wonderfully unique.
From left, Ko Minkeon, a daughter and successor, artisan Kisoondo, and chef Lidgerwood inspect the Meju for quality.
How do you typically work together on new dishes and ideas?
Chef Lidgerwood: It’s very much a hands-on process. I spend a lot of time with Kisoondo at her janggo, learning and experimenting. We discuss seasonal ingredients and brainstorm how to incorporate her ferments into our dishes. Her insights often guide the direction of our menu.
Artisan Kisoondo: Jang, one of Korea's five most essential fermented foods, forms the cornerstone of Korean cuisine, used in almost every dish. It plays a crucial role in seasoning, providing umami and a complex flavor profile that enhances the taste and appearance of various dishes. Jang pairs beautifully with a wide range of ingredients, including vegetables, meats, and fish. There's a Korean proverb that says, "You can tell the quality of a household's food by the taste of their jang." I introduced Joseph to the art of making and using jang, and together we prepared dishes showcasing this essential ingredient. We also explored seasonal produce from my garden and natural aromatic herbs. Once, after tasting our jang, Joseph created a caramel using soy sauce, gochujang (Korean red chili paste), and sesame oil. The idea and flavor were astonishing! While the primary ingredient in caramel is usually sugar, I introduced Joseph to ssal-jocheong (traditional Korean rice syrup). To make ssal-jocheong, barley is sprouted to produce malt with the enzyme amylase, which is then used to saccharify rice, creating sikhye (a sweet rice drink). When sikhye is reduced over heat, it turns into ssal-jocheong, rich in sweetness. Although we couldn't replace all the sugar with rice syrup, we managed to create a ‘Rice Syrup Jang Caramel’ using half rice syrup. The result was a delightful fusion of traditional Korean flavors and modern culinary creativity.
'Gochujang Jelly Roll-Ups' are a unique dish where paper-thin jelly made from a blend of persimmon and Gisundo gochujang, sugar, and salt is spread with Gisundo's strawberry gochujang and then rolled up with sweet shrimp inside.
Can you share another memorable moment from your partnership?
Chef Lidgerwood: One standout moment was during a special pop-up event we held in Kisoondo’s janggo. It was an immersive experience for our guests, combining dining with learning about fermentation. Seeing the guests' reactions and their appreciation for the depth of Korean flavors was incredibly rewarding.
Artisan Kisoondo: I think of Joseph as an exceptional chef, always brimming with passion and enthusiasm. One of my most memorable experiences was when we made jang together and then hosted a pop-up event, inviting over 50 guests to savor dishes centered around jang and its ingredients. Joseph showcased his innovative ideas with dishes like meju donuts plated on meju, cheonggukjang ice cream, and grilled Korean beef with jang purée. Every attendee was taken on a joyous culinary journey. Another notable collaboration was making jang kimchi, which I prepare with soy sauce instead of fish sauce. During kimchi-making season, we made this soy sauce-based kimchi, a vegan alternative, with several members of the EVETT team. It was a wonderful experience, highlighting Joseph's adaptability and our shared commitment to traditional yet innovative Korean cuisine.
'Master's Table' is a culinary creation inspired by Korea's traditional ssam (wrap) culture.
What challenges have you faced in your coordination, and how have you overcome them?
Chef Lidgerwood: One major challenge is ensuring a consistent supply of high-quality ingredients. Sometimes the best produce is reserved for larger buyers. However, our strong relationship with Kisoondo and other vendors helps mitigate this issue.
Artisan Kisoondo: Joseph's passion for food and learning made me eager to share as much as I could with him. Despite the lengthy and challenging process of traditional Korean fermentation, Joseph traveled back and forth from Seoul to Damyang, Jeollanam-do, a four-hour drive from Seoul, immersing himself in the demanding stages of production and exploring the flavors with genuine curiosity. Seeing his dedication, I felt he truly respected and appreciated jang.
To my son-like Joseph, I introduced various types of jang and a wide array of Korean ingredients that I use. He would taste them and come up with new ideas. Initially, his dishes didn't quite match my taste, partly because I'm very particular. However, after incorporating our jang, I found a sense of familiarity with the flavors, and by EVETT's second season, I could thoroughly enjoy his food. Normally, I'm very selective and rarely eat out due to my discerning palate, but Joseph's creations were an exception. Though my age makes it challenging to be very active, collaborating with Joseph has always been a joy. Despite already being an excellent chef, he continues to grow and evolve, and I wholeheartedly applaud his progress and new endeavors.
How has your synergy impacted the way people perceive Korean cuisine?
Chef Lidgerwood: Our collaboration has definitely opened people's eyes to the complexity and richness of Korean ingredients. Diners at EVETT leave with a deeper appreciation for the flavors and traditions of Korean cuisine, thanks in large part to Kisoondo’s influence.
Artisan Kisoondo: Jang, one of Korea's precious heritages developed over a long history, forms the foundation of Korean cuisine and is a cultural asset. In 2018, ‘jang-making’ was designated as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage to ensure its preservation. In 2024, it is set to be inscribed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Through chef Joseph, who brings a variety of cultural experiences and perspectives, these traditional jangs are creatively reintroduced to Korean visitors at EVETT, sparking amazement and delight. This allows us to revisit and rethink our familiar and often stereotyped traditional jangs and Korean ingredients, appreciating them in a new light.
What are your future plans for your joint effort?
Chef Lidgerwood: We have many exciting projects lined up, including more immersive dining experiences and perhaps even a cookbook that combines our knowledge and recipes. The goal is to continue pushing the boundaries and exploring new ways to highlight Korean ingredients.
Artisan Kisoondo: Through Chef Joseph, many chefs from around the world have visited my jang storage, tasted our jang, and experienced the process of making it. Once the jang has completed its long fermentation and aging process, I send it to them, and they experiment by incorporating it into their own culinary creations. We agreed that they would share their recipes with us. I am incredibly curious to see how this traditional Korean fermented paste will be reimagined in various recipes.
Finally, what advice would you give to others looking to form similar partnerships?
Chef Lidgerwood: Invest time in building relationships. Understanding your partners, their methods, and their stories is crucial. This foundation of trust and mutual respect is what makes a collaboration truly successful.
Artisan Kisoondo: I believe that the relationship between food and people is grounded in mindset and attitude. Sincerity and passion are essential. Every connection we make is invaluable. I hope to see more chefs like Joseph who are always diligent, curious, and eager to take on new challenges. I will always support Joseph and EVETT wholeheartedly.
