Stéphanie Le Quellec has professed her aim to "deconsecrate haute cuisine" via her set menus comprising different numbers of courses or "acts". The dishes may appear simple but every last detail has been carefully considered so that the bold flavours come through loud and clear. Happily, some of her signature dishes are reprised here, such as caviar, French toast and Pompadour apple. Tuck in to pastry chef Pierre Chirac's top-notch desserts – he creates "cooked" desserts with distinct tasting notes, like his dual-origin Tahiti vanilla in a crème brûlée and Madagascar vanilla in an ice cream. There is a fine choice of wines by the glass served from magnums and even jeroboams. It all comes together thanks to a well-coordinated team, from the kitchen to the front-of-house staff, who provide attentive and friendly service. At lunchtime, a tempting menu based on seasonal ingredients is served in the bistro.