The MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2021 saw the unveiling of new MICHELIN Stars.
We asked the MICHELIN inspectors to tell us about some of the dishes that really impressed them in these restaurants.
Behind - Guinea Fowl
Seafood may be the primary focus at Behind but the kitchen shows it handles meat dishes with equal aplomb. The guinea fowl had been aged and rolled with a farce; it was just so flavoursome and succulent. The pumpkin was the perfect companion and enriched the meat with its creaminess. As a contrast, the confit of leg served on the side provided a deeper, more intense flavour.
Benares - Baked Malabar scallop
The three hand-dived Scottish scallops were perfectly cooked and came with a rich, creamy coconut curry sauce that was sweet but well balanced, with the spices expertly judged. The paratha on the side was really special; it was a soft as a whisper but dotted with crispiness and was the perfect vessel for soaking up the delicious curry in the shell.
Cail Bruich - West coast crab, raw Orkney scallop, Exmoor caviar
The fine quality white crab meat was topped with thin slices of scallop. But it was the accompanying elements that really brought this dish alive and added considerable depth: celeriac purée, a little grapefruit and a homemade dashi adding a wonderful umami element to the dish. Stunning ingredients and long, lingering flavours.
Casa Fofō - Chicken liver and hazelnut
A super moist slice of pain perdu that had been soaked in the creamy liver juices and then roasted with a candied sugar glaze. It was topped with sliced liver and jalapeños, refreshing peppery mustard leaf and a few toasted hazelnuts for texture, with a sublime sherry cream sauce. Loved the little jalapeño 'hit'.
Cornerstone - Hake Kiev
A clever re-working of an old classic. The Kiev was enticingly golden and super crisp on the outside while the exceptional piece of hake inside was flawlessly cooked; it was moist and assured in flavour and the mushroom butter ran out in a gratifyingly tantalising way. A very moreish dish that provided wonderfully contrasting textures.
Davies and Brook - Venison
A dish of elegance and refinement that showed an innate understanding of balance and control. The roasted venison loin was caramelised on the outside while the centre was pink and tender yet robust in flavour. The rich, deep and glossy juniper reduction sauce and the fondant of sweet potato and caramelised onion were the perfect partners for the stunning piece of meat.
dede - Lobster kebab, isot pepper, spiced lobster bisque
A sublime, beautifully crafted dish – the tender, lightly charred and glazed flesh with a hint of Turkish pepper was outstanding, as was the delicate fluffy pancake on which it sat. The silky smooth and subtly spiced lobster bisque had enormous depth and its seasoning was perfectly judged.
hide and fox - Salt cod with crab, samphire and chorizo foam
A visually striking dish with the colour from the chorizo foam juxtaposed against the whiteness of the cod. More importantly, it was striking in taste too. The plump cod was perfectly cooked - it had structure and firmness but in the mouth it just melted. The earthiness of the fresh samphire worked very well with it, while the chorizo added some weight without overwhelming the fish; the foamed sauce was creamy and delicious.
Hjem - Lightly baked Cod, Pink Fir Apple potato, elderflower oil
Slices of superb pearlescent cod accompanied by a beautifully buttery pomme purée and a clear liquor made from the potatoes. Generous flavours from a dish whose relatively unassuming appearance belied the skill, understanding and care that went into its conception and execution.
More to follow in the next article.
This year, the Michelin Guide is being published in a digital format only, both on our website (UK and Republic of Ireland) and via the iOS app.