Mancunians, rejoice! There’s a new MICHELIN Star in town, and its name is Skof. The first venture from Chef Tom Barnes, who for many years steered the Simon Rogan ship at L’Enclume and beyond, has become the second restaurant in the city to be awarded One Star for its exceptional cooking. Our Inspectors were hugely enamoured with the restaurant Barnes and co. have created, and here one of them talks us through exactly why Skof is so deserving of its Star.
Arrival
Handily situated around 100 metres from the Shudehill tram stop, Skof is part of a rapidly redeveloping part of Manchester known as NOMA. The restaurant is housed inside an impressive, red-brick building that was once a textile warehouse but the entrance itself is rather unassuming – a sign of the understated quality to come.“The second we entered this lovely building, the manager came to greet me and take my coat on this cold night, when the Manchester air held particular bite. There’s no bar area so we were shown straight to our table, then immediately served a warm lamb broth. This was a delightfully comforting way to start a winter’s meal. The room was a particularly enjoyable place in which to dine, like a large square in shape with the open kitchen taking up one corner. Exposed red brick, steel columns and black-painted girders provided an industrial-chic edge, while the general air of simplicity helped to create a relaxed atmosphere.”
Skof's interior includes echoes of the building's industrial-era past. © Cristian Barnett
The Team
With our Inspectors safely out of the cold and ensconced in the stylish dining room, it was time for the meal to begin, an experience made all the more enjoyable by Skof’s impeccable service team.“I’ve been to few restaurants in the last year with service as good as Skof’s. Everything had such a fluidity to it; it was choreographed and smooth but didn’t feel overengineered or unnecessarily formal. Apart from the two managers, everybody was dressed in the same outfit, both chefs and waiters. This worked well with the interchangeable delivery of the dishes, sometimes by chefs, sometimes by waiters, but always done with great skill. For one course, diners were invited to the kitchen counter to see a dish finished in front of them and interact with the chefs. The movement and engagement this caused added to the nice buzz in the room. Some other dishes were also finished at the table, adding a well-judged touch of theatre.”
The snacks served at Skof include a lobster sourdough. © Cristian Barnett
Discover all the news from The MICHELIN Guide Ceremony Great Britain & Ireland 2025:
All the Winners from The Ceremony
The Full List of MICHELIN Stars
A Closer Look at the New MICHELIN Stars
36 New Bib Gourmands
All the Winners from The Ceremony
The Full List of MICHELIN Stars
A Closer Look at the New MICHELIN Stars
36 New Bib Gourmands
The Cooking
As one of the newest members of the MICHELIN-Starred family, the main thing you want to know about Skof is probably what exactly earned it the award. For this, our Inspector has all the answers.“There is no one set thing that makes MICHELIN-Starred cooking, but what stuck in my mind was how complicated and difficult the dishes clearly were to make, yet on the plate they appeared so simple. It is the sign of a really great, mature chef, I think, to never show off to the diner all their impressive techniques for the sake of it, but to use them only in the service of flavour and texture. Everything I ate at Skof was simple when it needed to be, elaborate when it needed to be. The dishes were delicious in a straightforward, accessible way – no matter how much work went into them. That, for me, is at the core of its success.”
'Orkney Scallop, BBQ Kohlrabi, Granny Smith and Nasturtium' at Skof. © Cristian Barnett
The Dishes Tasted
At Skof, you can choose between a tasting menu with 12 or 16 courses, plus a good value four-course lunch. Our Inspectors went for the 12-course option and were pleased to find precise, skilful cooking at every turn. Here are a few of the dishes which really stuck in their memory.Orkney Scallop, BBQ Kohlrabi, Granny Smith and Nasturtium
“All great chefs have an understanding of balance and this dish was a prime example. The neatly cut pieces of lightly cured scallop had a soft texture that was contrasted by crunchy pieces of just-charred kohlrabi, while the earthy element of the vegetable complemented the sweet scallop wonderfully. The dish was finished with a clear sharp Granny Smith juice infused with nasturtium oil, adding a little fragrance and acidity. A sprinkling of ‘apple snow’ added at the table provided a dash of theatre.”Caramelised King Edward Potato, Isle of Mull Cheddar, Rendered Leek, Pickled Walnut
“It was wonderful to witness the humble potato be elevated to such heady heights with this course. A finger of layered potato had a golden, crisp exterior and was topped with miso rendered leeks, plus some pickled mustard seeds adding sharpness. This was served in a creamy, lightly flavoured sauce infused with Isle of Mull cheddar and a pickled walnut oil that added a more earthy tone. This was one of the simpler dishes on the menu, but one of obvious quality all the same.”
'Steamed West Coast Cod, Whey Roscoff Onion, Smoked Eel and Buttermilk' at Skof. © Cristian Barnett
Steamed West Coast Cod, Whey Roscoff Onion, Smoked Eel and Buttermilk
“My eyes lit up when this arrived as the glisteningly white cod really looked the part. Indeed, it was a superb piece of fish, the gentle steaming method used to cook it allowing the cod’s delicious natural flavour and meaty texture to remain intact. The bed of sweet and sour shredded onions provided yet another lovely combination in a meal full of them, while a foamed buttermilk sauce with smoked eel provided another layer of flavour. This dish was a prime example of the understated quality that makes Skof so special. It was served with a terrific laminated brioche that was perfect for mopping up the sauce.”
The tiramisu at Skof comes with a personal story from Chef-Owner Tom Barnes. © Cristian Barnett
Barney’s Tiramisu
“Brought to each table by Chef Tom Barnes himself, this was a fittingly personal way to end, served in place of petits fours with coffee. A tribute to his late father’s favourite dish, it was a light, sweet version of the classic Italian dessert cooked to the exact same recipe he’s always used. It was a touching tribute and a lovely way to end a brilliant meal.”Conclusion
“The phrase ‘worthy winner’ seems particularly apt for a restaurant like Skof. With so much top-level experience under his belt, Tom Barnes was faced with extremely high expectations for his first solo restaurant. That he has dealt with the pressure and delivered a personal, skilful and simply delicious dining experience that builds on yet doesn’t imitate his previous work, is to be applauded. The MICHELIN Star is thoroughly well-deserved.”NEW City Guides:
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Hero Image: © Skof/Cristian Barnett
