Travel 7 minutes 30 July 2024

Edinburgh Festival Fringe, The MICHELIN Guide Way

Where to stay, what to eat and more top tips on how to get the most out of your trip to Edinburgh

With over two million tickets sold every year, the Edinburgh Festival Fringe is the world’s largest performing arts festival. Running this year from 2nd to 26th August, the event is known worldwide for its comedy line-up, but is also home to all manner of shows from theatre and dance to poetry and cabaret. With so much going on, visiting Edinburgh for the Fringe can be tiring to say the least. Which is why we think it’s time that amidst the hive of pamphlets, posters and promotion (and that’s just on the Royal Mile), you ensure that your sleeping and eating arrangements are as amazing as the plays, poetry and performances you will see. So, without further ado, here are our top tips for getting the most from your Edinburgh Festival Fringe experience.

Victoria Street, near many Edinburgh Festival Fringe venues (© Guven Ozdemir/iStock)
Victoria Street, near many Edinburgh Festival Fringe venues (© Guven Ozdemir/iStock)

Begin Your Fringe Day Right

We all know that breakfast is the most important meal of the day – and that is truer than ever during the Fringe. For an early morning pastry-run to recover from a late night finish, you can’t go wrong with Twelve Triangles. Expect not just delicious croissants and pains au chocolat, but also twists on these traditional pastries like chocolate hazelnut croissants. This Edinburgh mini-chain is ideal for Fringe-goers as there are venues dotted around the city and suburbs. So wherever you’re staying, you can get your day off to a delicious start.

For a sit-down brunch, Honeycomb & Co in Bruntsfield offers classic options from a full Scottish breakfast to avocado on toast, always using locally sourced ingredients. Look out for slight twists on tradition too, like their ‘Hot & Spicy French Toast’. Although Bruntsfield is located a little out of the city centre, it still makes a great place to base yourself for the day. There are several venues here clustered around the University of Edinburgh, along with the Underbelly Circus Hub on The Meadows, which hosts a variety of performances showcasing incredible feats of artistry and athleticism. If you’re a cinephile, then the Cameo cinema is nearby too, which is hosting screenings from the Edinburgh International Film Festival.

What’s more, if you get peckish later in the day you can pop into Hendersons for some satisfying vegetarian and vegan fare. The latest incarnation of a long-running family business, the restaurant is something of an institution for veggies and the chefs are adept at putting plant produce front and centre. The £10 lunch deal is an absolute steal and perfect for a Fringe pick-me-up.

The famous vegan haggis at Hendersons (© Juliette Lichman)
The famous vegan haggis at Hendersons (© Juliette Lichman)

Escape the Hustle and Bustle

Another part of Bruntsfield’s appeal is that it provides some respite from the chaos of the city centre. The buzz of the Fringe crowds is what many people love about visiting Edinburgh in August, yet sometimes it can all get a little much. Your Fringe schedule can quickly get busy as you bounce from hilarious comedy shows to experimental plays, so why not take time out for some relaxing fresh air?

In Bruntsfield, you’re ideally situated for a picnic on The Meadows. This lovely green space is next to Bruntsfield Links and is easily accessed from the city centre. But where should you pick up the bits and bobs for your picnic? A warm welcome will be found at the family-run 181 Delicatessen. Here you can browse local Scottish produce and pick up homemade light bites like quiches and sausage rolls. Their selection of cheeses is excellent, and the lovely team headed by Mike and Charlotte Billinghurst are always happy to give advice.

Just a five-minute walk away, you’ll find Chez Roger, a specialist French delicatessen run by another husband-and-wife team, Gaëlle and Frédéric Roger. In addition to a range of authentic French products, Gaëlle and Frédéric also put together apéro grazing boxes (order at least 48 hours before collection). For a sweet treat, pop into the nearby Cuckoo’s Bakery for tasty cupcakes, cakes and award-winning scones; there are also various excellent gluten-free and vegan options. The Highland Coo Cupcake may be adorable, but don’t be taken in – under the buttercream, you’ll find a naughty whisky ganache centre.

The Meadows in Edinburgh (© georgeclark/iStock)
The Meadows in Edinburgh (© georgeclark/iStock)

Cool Off with an Ice Cream

Edinburgh may not be known for its sweltering heat, but the Fringe does still take place in August. So on a hot day, there’s nothing better than cooling down with a scoop or three of ice cream or sorbet. Many of the festival’s venues are located in the city’s Old Town, particularly clustered around the Royal Mile and Grassmarket. Handily, the latter is also home to the retro Mary’s Milk Bar. Mary herself makes the ice cream fresh every morning, and serves both classic flavours and some less traditional options, like smoked paprika and peanut or fresh dill cream.

Another option on Grassmarket is a little hut reminiscent of a police box, where Over Langshaw Farmhouse sell ice cream made using their own farm-fresh organic milk, eggs and cream. What’s more, The Beehive Inn is just a short stroll away, which for this year’s Fringe is home to the Scottish Comedy Festival. So after you’re done with your rum & raisin, head over for some local laughs.

The Royal Mile in Edinburgh, near many Fringe venus (© benedek/iStock)
The Royal Mile in Edinburgh, near many Fringe venus (© benedek/iStock)

Grab a Spot of Afternoon Tea

You may have noticed a theme here – we’re very keen to ensure you stay well-refreshed in between shows. And what better way to do that than with a delicious afternoon tea, slotting in perfectly between your afternoon and evening entertainment? Just off the Royal Mile, you’ll find Colonnades at The Signet Library, where the hustle and bustle of Edinburgh’s busiest street instantly falls away. Savour a modern afternoon tea in the beautifully restored 19th-century Lower Library amidst fluted Corinthian columns and ornate neo-classical balustrades.

The building is also notable for being in a near-perfect location for the Fringe, especially if you’re a comedy lover. The Signet Library is in easy walking distance of some of the festival’s biggest venues, meaning you can see much-lauded names from the world of stand-up, whether it’s Sara Pascoe at The Monkey Barrel, Milton Jones at Assembly Hall or anyone from Sue Perkins to Rose Matafeo at Pleasance Courtyard. Underbelly Cowgate and Gilded Balloon Patter House are also nearby.

The Spence restaurant inside Gleneagles Townhouse
The Spence restaurant inside Gleneagles Townhouse

If you’d prefer your afternoon tea in the New Town, head to The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse. Formerly the home of the Royal Bank of Scotland, this hotel and restaurant has maintained the Georgian banking hall’s sense of grandeur with granite columns, immense windows and a beautiful cupola that allows the restaurant to be flooded with light. And while the Fringe is typically more Old Town centric, this part of the city is still a great place to be entertained. It could be viral bilingual comedian Paul Taylor doing his first English-only show at The Stand Comedy Club, or a group ceilidh held at the Royal College of Physicians.



Treat Yourself to Dinner

In amongst all the hundreds of brilliant shows you want to catch, try to fit in dinner at one of Edinburgh’s roster of top-drawer restaurants. If you’re in the New Town, then the Bib Gourmand awarded duo of Noto and tipo will take some beating. Both run by seasoned restaurateur Stuart Ralston and serving flavoursome, great value small plates, they’re an ideal option for grabbing some delicious food without sacrificing your entire evening.

One of the pasta dishes at tipo (© Clair Irwin)
One of the pasta dishes at tipo (© Clair Irwin)

In the Old Town, it would be a crime not to make the most of the prime Scottish seafood at the enduringly popular Ondine. Conveniently located near dozens of Fringe venues, the restaurant features a horseshoe bar and a crustacean counter. Enjoy a different kind of happy hour before dinner with oysters from £2.50. For a more luxurious experience, opt for the Michelin-Starred Timberyard, which has impressed the Inspectors with its skilful approach of deriving maximum flavour from just a few quality ingredients. Its 19th-century warehouse location provides a unique setting and, if the weather’s good, you can bask in the sunshine in the walled courtyard.

If you find yourself in Bruntsfield as your stomach starts to rumble, head to LeftField. With only six tables in the dining room, this restaurant’s cosy atmosphere is complemented by the view over The Meadows and to the hills beyond. Seasonal dishes with Scottish fish and shellfish front and centre are accompanied by minimal intervention wines.

Port of Leith, on the outskirts of Edinburgh (© ewg3D/iStock)
Port of Leith, on the outskirts of Edinburgh (© ewg3D/iStock)

Finally, if you fancy an evening away from the city centre crowds, head to the cool neighbourhood of Leith – easily accessed by the city’s new tram line along Leith Walk. Here, you will find one of the country’s highest concentrations of Michelin Stars, with The Kitchin, Martin Wishart and Heron all within a stone’s throw of each other. The latter is the new kid on the block, receiving its Star in 2023 for the chefs’ impressive handling of fine Scottish produce.

Finish with a Wee Dram or a Tipple

There’s nothing like a good night cap to finish off an evening. Luckily, in Edinburgh you’re blessed with options. The truly iconic Balmoral hotel offers over 500 whiskys at its SCOTCH bar, covering the Highlands, Lowlands, Islands, Islay and Speyside, making it the ideal place for beginners and aficionados alike to discover the spirit of Scotland. The Voodoo Rooms is nearby too, which is one of many venues offering shows from PBH’s Free Fringe, named after its founder Peter Buckley Hill.

Some of the extensive whisky collection at The Balmoral
Some of the extensive whisky collection at The Balmoral

If you’re more of a wine-lover, then Bar Zero Zero in Newington is a true local hotspot, within walking distance of The Meadows. Run by a group of friends, this cosy bar has a curated selection of interesting natural wines and spirits served by knowledgeable bartenders. There are also puzzles and board games on hand for a chilled evening.

For a cocktail, head back to Gleneagles Townhouse. The Spence won Michelin’s Exceptional Cocktails Award in 2024, while the rooftop Lamplighters bar is a brilliant exclusive spot for hotel residents and club members, offering incredible views across Edinburgh. After the sun sets, move from the bar to a bed in one of the hotel’s chic Victorian bedrooms.

Stay in Style

There are plenty of stellar central hotels to choose from as your base for the Fringe. When deciding where to stay, consider your itinerary and level of familiarity with the city. While the city is very walkable and public transport abounds, a hotel located in Edinburgh’s centre will ensure you can make it to as many performances as possible despite the crowds. We’ve put together a list of Edinburgh’s best hotels, but a couple of highlights include: the unbridled luxury of the aforementioned Balmoral; the decadent, maximalist approach of the House of Gods Royal Mile, which is perfect for the more glamorous guest; and the soothing simplicity of Eden Locke, which is decked out in pastel hues and comes with full kitchens in its studio apartments if you need to make a late-night, post-show dinner.

The Palm Court at The Balmoral
The Palm Court at The Balmoral

In Short

Whether you have a packed schedule moving from show to show or would rather select a few and spend the rest of your time sightseeing, remember: there’s no right way to do the Edinburgh Fringe. Remove the pressure and just enjoy the pleasure of being in one of Europe’s most culturally vibrant cities. Whatever you do, we’re sure you’ll love it!

Address Book

181 Delicatessen: 181 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh, EH10 4DG
Assembly Hall, Mound Pl, Edinburgh, EH1 2LU
Bar Zero Zero: 18 S Clerk St, Newington, Edinburgh, EH8 9PR
Cameo Picturehouse, 38 Home St, Edinburgh, EH3 9LZ
Chez Roger: 11 Colinton Rd, Edinburgh, EH10 5DP
Colonnades at the Signet Library: The Signet Library, Parliament Sqr, Edinburgh, EH1 1RF
Cuckoo’s Bakery Café: 150 Dundas St, Edinburgh EH3 5DQ; 116 Bruntsfield Pl, Edinburgh EH10 4ES; 22 Grindlay St, Edinburgh, EH3 9AP
Gilded Balloon Patter House, 3 Chambers St, Edinburgh, EH1 1HT
Mary’s Milk Bar: 19 Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2HS
Monkey Barrel Comedy, 9-12 Blair St, Edinburgh, EH1 1QR
Over Langshaw Farmhouse Ice Cream, The Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2AW
Pleasance Courtyard, 60 Pleasance, Edinburgh, EH8 9TJ
Royal College of Physicians, Great Hall: 11 Queen St, Edinburgh, EH2 1JQ
The Beehive Inn, 18-20 Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2JU
The Stand Comedy Club 5 & 6: The Place, 34-38 York Place, EH1 3HU
The Voodoo Rooms, 19a W Register St, Edinburgh EH2 2AA
Twelve Triangles: 90 Brunswick St, Edinburgh, EH7 5HU; 50 Dalry Rd, Edinburgh, EH11 2BA; 9 Comely Bank Rd, Edinburgh, EH4 1DR; 414 Morningside Rd, Edinburgh, EH10 5HY; 148 Duke St, Edinburgh, EH6 8HU
Underbelly Circus Hub on The Meadows, Middle Meadow Walk, Edinburgh, EH9 9EX
Underbelly Cowgate, 66 Cowgate, Edinburgh, EH1 1JR


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