Charming grounds with a lake and a fountain lead up to this 16C house with Tudor origins and Victorian extensions. Inside it’s an appealing mix of the old and the new: cosy lounges feature ornately carved dark wood panelling and squashy sofas set in front of roaring fires, which contrast with an ultra-modern glass-fronted restaurant with sleek blond wood furnishings and an impressive open kitchen. Mark Birchall brings his knowledge and experience together in a style of his own, where skilfully executed dishes combine the classic flavours of the region with modern techniques and a light touch. The produce leads the menu and he only uses ingredients at their peak; as well as tasting delicious individually, each has its part to play when a dish is eaten as a whole, contributing maybe earthiness, acidity or herbal tones. Local gingerbread is often a feature and the pacing of the meal is well-judged. Spacious bedrooms have a contemporary feel.