Pass those enjoying afternoon tea in the stunning Palm Court and you’ll be swept into a room that takes your breath away, where stunning Louis XVI decoration sets a celebratory tone. What was once the reserve of a somewhat exclusive crowd has now become more accessible, with menus ranging from an à la carte to a ‘menu surprise’.

Luxury ingredients are never far away and there’s a flamboyancy in the delivery that matches the surroundings. Classic techniques and the influence of Escoffier shine through but modern elements bring the dishes into the present day. The sharing ‘Arts de la Table’ dishes keep the theatre of the gueridon trolley alive; allow 40mins for the crêpe Suzette or beef Wellington.

Executive Chef John Williams MBE remains a guiding force and his influence is omnipresent in this celebrated dining experience.