Passing through nine counties, the 2,600km-long Wild Atlantic Way is the perfect route for an immersive journey of discovery in the west of The Emerald Isle. The longest coastal route in the world, it begins in the north at the Inishowen Peninsula and winds its way down the coast to Kinsale in the south, offering some truly stunning scenery along the way. Traditionally, most follow it in this direction, but for the best ocean views and less traffic, we recommend doing it in reverse.
Divided into three main sections comprising 14 stages, it takes around 32 hours behind the wheel to tackle the entire route, which is best spread across 11-14 days. Throughout your trip you'll navigate narrow peninsulas, windswept wildlands and rugged mountainscapes, and dotted along the way you’ll find quaint fishing villages, traditional workshops and some top MICHELIN Guide recommended hospitality.
Whatever the weather, there's always something to see here. Spring brings with it the opportunity to see nature waking up; summer provides the warmest and most reliable weather, although this is also when the small roads will be at their busiest; autumn offers stunning colours; while winter sees wild and dramatic landscapes.
We've divided our trip in two, with Part One beginning in Cork and ending in Galway and Part Two picking up the route from Galway and ending in Muff.
Conor Pass, Ring of Kerry, County Kerry (© iStock/morrbyte)
West Cork: From Cork to Kinsale to Durrus, 27km + 207km
Begin your road trip in Ireland’s culinary capital. While Cork isn’t on the official Wild Atlantic Way route, it’s well-connected and is the perfect place to whet your appetite for the artisanal indulgence to come. From here, drive south for 27km to Kinsale, where you’ll join the Wild Atlantic Way. Weave west along the cliffs and farmland past untouched bays and peaceful villages, then after reaching Mizen Head, navigate north to Durrus.
Mizen Head, County Cork (© iStock/cabuscaa)
Stay Along the Route
Spend a night or two in Cork’s historical city centre at The River Lee Hotel – a few strides away from the Cork Public Museum and the Lewis Glucksman Gallery. While the neutral tones and natural materials throughout the décor create a cosy atmosphere, the geometric prints and colourful accents infuse an air of modern luxe. The floor-to-ceiling waterfront views are a great draw whatever the time of year, but drinks on the terrace are a must come summer.Further along at Inchydoney Island, you'll find the the Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa, which sits in a wonderful spot on the headland and boasts stunning views over the beach; in a nice touch, every one of the modern bedrooms has a balcony or terrace to make the most of this view. This is accompanied by an impressive spa with a seawater pool and 21 treatment rooms!
© Inchydoney Island Lodge and Spa, Clonakilty
See and Do
Pause at the laid-back Irish harbour village of Kinsale, dotted with colourful storybook houses, and be sure to pop into the family-run Mamukko shop to browse a stylish selection of premium bags – pieced together using repurposed sails, liferafts and leather. Just around the corner is Ireland’s first meadery in 200 years, Kinsale Mead Co., where you can wet your lips with award-winning artisan mead.Stretch your legs on a 6km loop around the wild rocky outcrop of Old Head, then continue west and sink your toes into the sand at Inchydoney Beach. Discover the unexpected delights of the nearby town of Clonakilty – home to one of the best live folk music bars in Ireland, DeBarras Folk Club, and Europe's smallest chocolate factory, Exploding Tree, which uses ethically sourced cocoa beans.
Preserving indigenous tradition and the finest local catch, the female-run Woodcock Smokery offers full and half-day workshops on curing and smoking wild fish. Not far from here is Skibbereen – a cornerstone in the revival of Irish whiskey production. The town’s West Cork Distillers can give you an insight into their ancient traditional processes with a modern twist.
Swing by Lough Hyne for an adventure on the water, where you can hire sea kayaks to explore the secluded coves and inlets; other great spot for this are Roaringwater Bay and Sherkin Island. If you’re a lover of wildlife, venture further out to sea on an ethical whale-watching tour from Baltimore. You could spot minke whales, fin whales, dolphins, harbour porpoises, whale sharks and humpbacks in these Irish waters – which became Europe’s first designated whale and dolphin sanctuary in 1991. Before reaching Durrus, hike around the rugged natural beauty of Mizen Head and Brow Head – the southernmost point of mainland Ireland.
Kinsale, County Cork (© iStock/Kirk Fisher)
Dine
To dive straight into Ireland’s staple seafood delicacies head to Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded Goldie, in Cork, whose on-trend, stripped-back bistro interior couples with well-priced modern dishes take a gill-to-fin approach to the daily catch. Another Bib Gourmand comes in the form of Ichigo Ichie Bistro & Natural Wine, with its relaxed, buzzy vibe. Japanese flavours lead the way in unfussy dishes that include a must-try match panna cotta, and the natural wines are also worth sampling. Brasserie-lovers, meanwhile, should head to The Glass Curtain, where modern dishes are cooked with love and care and the charming team will be sure to look after you.Heading on to Kinsale, One-Michelin-Starred Bastion is a very contemporary spot. A large bar splits the room in two and twinkling candles add a welcoming touch. Exacting, modern dishes exhibit a playful element, with natural flavours kept to the fore and local seafood a highlight. The super intimate Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded Saint Francis Provisions, meanwhile, comprises just 15 seats and a heated front terrace – the perfect spot for lunch when the sun's out. The daily changing, Mediterranean-inspired small plates offer punchy flavours and are sent out from the kitchen as and when they're ready. If your're a fan of Indian cuisine, head over to Rare, where West Cork ingredients are employed in recipes hailing from the southern-Indian region of Tamil Nadu, resulting in dishes that make abundant use of chilli and coconut, as well as sweeter elements such as tamarind and date. Finally, for fans of the classics there's Max's, which offers unfussy, well-executed dishes with local seafood playing a key role.
As you follow the coast, you'll come across three more options. Run by fourth generation family owners, Adrift in Dunmore sits in an enviable location overlooking Clonakilty Bay, but its attractive modern dishes will also draw your eye – many of which feature ingredients from its organic kitchen garden. Next, in Baltimore, is Two-Michelin-Starred dede, where Chef-Owner Ahmet Dede draws on his Turkish heritage to create refined, multi-layered dishes packed full of flavour. This is joined by the nearby Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded Baba'de (or 'Baby Dede'), a more relaxed affair offering great value Turkish sharing plates. Rounding out this stage of the trip is One-Michelin-Starred Chestnut in Ballydehob, a sweet, intimate restaurant where the shelves are laden with wine, mead and jars full of produce that is marinating, curing or fermenting. The constantly evolving tasting menu demonstrates a great understanding of textures and pure, natural tastes.
Adrift, Dunmore (© Andrew Bradley)
Sheep’s Head and Beara: Durrus to Kenmare, 210km
Hug the coastline as you motor around the Sheep’s Head Peninsula and the Beara Peninsula. Here you will drive deep into Ireland’s untamed landscapes with wild heather and rocky shorelines, and pump the brakes on the Healy Pass hairpin bends through the Caha Mountains.
Cloonee Lough, Beara Peninsula, County Cork (© iStock/ahavelaar)
Stay Along the Route
If being around water makes you mellow, then Two-Michelin-Key Sheen Falls Lodge will soothe your soul. All but two of the hotel bedrooms offer water views, either of the rippling Kenmare Bay or the River Sheen’s narrow rapids. Reflecting it’s surrounding natural beauty, including a 300-acre estate, the hotel is decorated with earthy tones of green, blue and berry, while warming fireplaces and antler chandeliers add to the theme. With complimentary bicycles, paddle boards and kayaks, you'll soon be out exploring the area.Another option is the Park Hotel Kenmare. Originally a railway hotel, it’s now a grand, Victorian-style spa retreat complete with period features, antique furnishings and old-school service. Relax to sea views in the spa, walk the bay or simply take it all in from Landline, their elegant restaurant, where original paintings by Irish artist Sean Scully adorn the walls, and prime Irish ingredients are joined by a strong selection of classic wines.
© Sheen Falls Lodge, Kenmare
See and Do
Roll to the far reaches of the Sheep’s Head Peninsula from Durrus and double back to the vistas at Seefin Discovery Viewpoint. For some type-two fun, follow the uphill trail up to Mount Seefin's summit – standing in at 528m; then, if it's a Friday, refuel at the Bantry Farmers’ Market with some Bantry Bay mussels. After that, it's time to discover Whiddy Island by kayak.Steer around the bay until you reach Glengarriff Blue Pool for a hike around this hidden tidal harbour surrounded by forest. Here, you can catch the Blue Pool Ferry to the pristine gardens of Garnish Island, where temples, clock towers and curious pathways are dotted between floral displays and shrubs – all imagined by garden designer Harold Peto.
Make your way along Beara Peninsula and traverse the Caha Mountains via the epic Healy Pass, then head west past the pretty village of Eyeries to the brightly coloured houses of Allihies. Wander down to the sandy shores of Ballydonegan Beach Allihies – where you’ll also find some private beachfront saunas for hire.
After passing the charming port town of Castletown-Bearhaven, pull over in Coomgira to stroll around The Mare’s Tail Waterfall. Head back along the Healy Pass to Kilmackillogue Discovery Viewpoint, then take a detour to Gleninchaquin Park for more waterfalls and tranquil hiking trails. If you missed the seafront saunas, there's another opportunity at Coornagillagh, then continue to Kenmare and pop into the traditional Weavers of Ireland shop.
Beachfront Sauna, Allihies, County Cork (© iStock/JohnGollop)
Dine
The aforementioned Landline offers a fairly formal experience when it comes to dining. Mulcahys, meanwhile, offers a more lively, laid-back vibe, and is a favourite with locals and travellers alike. Having been an important part of Kenmare since 1995, this restaurant and bar seeks to satisfy with hearty home-style classics crafted from locally sourced wild and free-range produce. After a day out exploring, you can build your own perfectly sized meal from the flexible selection of small and large plates.
Mulcahys, Kenmare (© Dennison Design)
City Guides:
Ring of Kerry: Kenmare to Castlemaine, 175km
Strap in for some steep climbs and dramatic descents through the mountain passes as you hit the Ring of Kerry. Admire the lough and North Atlantic views, followed by a beeline over the bridge to Valentia Island. At the end of this stint, stay a while in Killarney National Park.
Ross Castle and Lough Leane, Killarney National Park, County Kerry (© iStock/GarySanyWales)
Stay Along the Route
Head inland to the 25,000-acre wilderness of the Killarney National Park and Lough Leane. Here you have the choice of four different hotels; making your way from south to north, you'll come across them in the following order.Muckross Park Hotel & Spa. At first glance, you’ll be struck by the opulent 18th-century styling, with its rich colour palette and ornate soft furnishings, but softening the mood is a comforting hint of 21st-century décor. After exploring the surrounding scenic walking and biking trails, kick off your muddy boots and head to the uniquely styled, Gothic-inspired spa.
The Victoria. Boasting One Michelin Key, this boutique hotel brings something rather different to the area. The name is a clue as to what influences its décor, with a host of country house details that recall the Victorian era, but these are accompanied by bright colours and bold designs that bring it firmly into the 21st century. The local trails cross its doorstep and there's a bike hire shop next door.
The Killarney Park. Also the proud recipient of One Michelin Key, The Killarney Park sits in the centre of town and brings a certain top-hatted-doorman kind of formality to proceedings. Classic furnishings and plush fabrics are joined by a tranquil spa with an outside hot tub, as well as terraces that are perfect for basking in the afternoon sun, drink in hand. When it comes to dining there's The Peregrine, an elegant space serving top produce from the county.
Aghadoe Heights Hotel & Spa. A modernist 1960s building plays host to this crisply designed hotel. On entering, you’ll notice the serenity doesn’t just come from its countryside, lake and mountain views but also the sleek, pale-hued décor. Earthy tweeds pay homage to the local heritage, while a sprinkling of modern art adds to the tasteful balance of the retro and contemporary feel. Full-length windows and an extensive spa ensure the ultimate in peace and relaxation.
© Aghadoe Heights Hotel & Spa, Killarney
See and Do
From Kenmare, head west and hug the coast until you get to the rocky Ballyvohane Harbour and Derrynane House – where you can step inside the ancestral home of 19th-century Irish Politician Daniel O’Connell. Book a workshop at Atlantic Irish Seaweed for a fascinating history and sustainability discovery tour, and pull over at the Com an Chiste Ring of Kerry Scenic Point for sublime coastal vistas.The unassuming town of Ballinskelligs is brimming with history – home to the 12th-century ruins of Ballinskelligs Abbey, an early Christian monk settlement and a beachfront 16th-century tower house. Stop for a tipple at Portmagee Whiskey – a distillery run by two brothers on their historic family site, which was previously the Royal Irish Constabulary Barracks. From here you take a bridge over to Valentia Island and a ferry at the other end to Reenard Point.
The other key point of interest on this leg of the journey lies further inland at Killarney National Park, an excellent place to base yourself to pause in the raw natural beauty of Kerry and explore on foot or bike. Wander around Torc Waterfall and O'Sullivan's Cascade or follow the Tomies Wood Trail. Hop between the historic buildings – Ross Castle, Muckross Abbey and Muckross House, before heading for the Killarney Riding Stables. A visit here allows you to take the road through the Gap of Dunloe for dramatic mountain scenery.
Muckross Abbey, Killarney National Park, County Kerry (© iStock/Valerio Bonaretti)
Dine
At The Peregrine, everything from the décor around you to the dishes on the menu and the ingredients themselves draw inspiration from the Killarney National Park and County Kerry. High-quality ingredients are locally, ethically and sustainably sourced and the latest produce to arrive at the door is what guides the menus. It's open for breakfast, as well as for dinner from Thursday to Sunday, with afternoon tea also served on the first two Sundays of each month.
The Peregrine, Killarney (© Joleen/Park)
Dingle Peninsula: Castlemaine to Tralee, 150km
Set off from Castlemaine, the gateway to the Dingle Peninsula, and curve your way around traditional harbour towns. Cut through the towering mountains past waterfalls and loughs, and hop from beach to beach until you reach Tralee.
Coumeenoole Beach, Slea Head, Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry (© iStock/benedek)
See and Do
Edge along Castlemaine Harbour to the 5km windswept dunes of Inch Beach or discover the rural Atlantic charm of Dingle with its colourful shops offering artisan ice cream, handmade pottery and art lessons. Stop for a tipple at Foxy John’s or, just around the corner, is the Dingle Distillery.See a spectacular display of agility and intelligence at the Dingle Sheepdog Demonstrations, then take a trip past the historical Beehive Hut structures, followed by a 2.6km walk around the Dunmore Head Loop. Take home a stone and porcelain clay creation coated in hand-made natural glaze from a wheel-throwing workshop at Louis Mulcahy Pottery. Near here is Clogher Strand, where calm waters are sheltered by two headlands.
Steer around the peninsula tip and brave the Conor Pass – this narrow, twisting road clings to the mountain edge with heights of 1,496ft. Pull into the layby at the Conor Pass Waterfall and stop again at Lough Adoon Walkway to follow the 6km trail to Lough Adoon. Finish this stint with a laze on Castlegregory Beach or Derrymore Beach.
Fahan Beehive Huts, Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry (© iStock/makasana)
Dine
Dingle brings with it two choices when it comes to dining. The first, Solas, is a warmly run spot offering a harmonious marriage of Irish produce and Spanish cuisine, where the gregarious chef-owner takes inspiration from his travels and adds local ingredients and a personalised twist. Awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its great value cooking, you can dine flexibly from the range of small, medium and larger plates.You second option is Land to Sea, which does exactly what it says on the tin. Wonderfully fresh produce from the surrounding fields and nearby waters is the focus here, with classical techniques and a great understanding of flavour underpinning the smartly presented dishes. The charming service team really add to the experience too.
© Solas, Dingle
The Shannon Estuary: Tralee to Kilkee, 216km
Start The Bay Coast stretch of the route by staying close to the rugged coastline from Tralee to Kilkee. Drive along the majestic clifftops and down to spotless sandy beaches.
The Cliffs of Kilkee, County Clare (© iStock/Przemysław Iciak)
Stay Along the Route
You're spoilt for choice again on this part of the route, with four different hotel options along the way.Teach de Broc is a charming family-run guesthouse set amongst Ballybunion's sand dunes, just a stone's throw from the beach. It caters well for golfers visiting the neighbouring Ballybunion Golf Club, but there are also caves and cliff walks for outdoor enthusiasts to explore. Wooden furnishings and earthy tones lead the way inside, matching the rolling green views through the windows.
Although also focused around golf, Adare Manor in Adare comes in at the opposite end of the scale with its sheer size and grandeur. Once home to the Earl of Dunraven, this neo-Gothic manor house is surrounded by 840 acres of formal French gardens and parklands which border the River Maigue, and elegance and luxury are at every turn. The proud recipient of Three Michelin Keys, this is somewhere to stay for a real celebration. (See more on its restaurant below.)
Further on in Limerick, you'll find the intimate No. 1 Pery Square, an 1830s townhouse in the Georgian Quarter, with a marble hearth and gilt-framed mirrors. Some of the bedrooms now have a modern, clubby style, while others retain their elegant period feel; the suite combines the two and comes with a private bar and mountain views. After a long day out walking, the brick-walled candlelit spa provides the perfect setting.
Another special experience can be found in Newmarket-on-Fergus, where you can stay in a former castle, now the One-Michelin-Key Dromoland Castle hotel. The 500-acre grounds are as breathtaking as the building itself and you can take in the spectacular parkland and river views on foot, by bike or on a golf buggy. Inside, its original features include a spiral staircase, arched windows and intricately carved ceilings, and the spacious rooms come with rich colours and plush furnishings.
© Adare Manor, Adare
See and Do
Buckle in and head west to Fenit for a stroll around the harbour before taking a dip at the Blue Flag awarded Ballyheigue Beach. Continue along the route to Ballybunion Beach – overlooked by a crumbling clifftop castle. On foot, follow the steep track to Nun’s Beach where you’ll spot the dramatic natural arch in the shallows known as Virgin Rock.Wander off the beaten path to Bromore Cliffs’ secluded trails. When you’re back on the road, wind around Corcas and Sandhills to the seven-storey Carrigafoyle Castle, which is cut off by the water at high tide. Stop at the Carrigogunnell Castle ruins, which have been reclaimed by nature, then swing by Limerick on your way around the head of the Shannon Estuary.
Navigate west past the estuary’s dinky uninhabited islands on your way to Kilrush. From here you can hop on a ferry to Scattery Island – where you’ll find medieval churches and an ancient monastic round tower. Next, hit the road to Loop Head for scenery so spectacular it was once a film set for Star Wars. Before reaching Kilkee, stop to watch the waves crashing against the sea stacks on a walk along the Kilkee Cliffs.
Ballybunion Beach, County Kerry (© iStock/morrbyte)
Dine
If you're looking to celebrate, then Adare Manor’s opulent restaurant, The Oak Room, is the place for you. Wood-panelled walls and glittering chandeliers set the tone and there's also a glass-enclosed terrace offering beautiful views out over the grounds. The inspiration behind the sensational tasting menu came from a 3,000km road trip around Ireland taken by the Head Chef and great attention is given to the finer details.For those who like things a little more down to earth, there's 1826 Adare in the same village, housed within a pretty little cottage with a cosy, characterful feel. Run by an experience couple, it spotlights Irish produce and offers a great value Sunday 'late lunch'.
For something a little different, further on in Limerick is the East Room. Set within grounds of The University of Limerick and hidden away in a Palladian house, it comes with Corinthian pillars, ornate plasterwork and a menu of suitably sophisticated dishes.
East Room, Limerick (©William/East Room at Plassey House)
Address book
With too much to feature in the main article, here are some recommendations for things to do within each county.Cork:
Bantry Farms’ Market, Wolfe Tone Square, Town Lots, Bantry, Co. Cork, P75 PC96
Cork Public Museum, Fitzgerald Park, Mardyke, Cork, T12 V0AA
DeBarras Folk Club, 55 Pearse St, Tawnies Upper, Clonakilty, Co. Cork, P85 RH95
Exploding Tree, Assumption Place, Clonakilty, Co. Cork
Kinsale Mead Co., Unit 5 Barracks Ln, Kinsale, Co. Cork, P17 XV10
Mamukko Shop, Guardwell, Town-Plots, Kinsale, Co. Cork
Sunset Sauna Allihies, Ballydonegan Beach, Allihies, Co. Cork
The Glucksman Art Museum, University College Cork, University College, CCork, T12 N1FK
West Cork Distillers, Marsh Rd, Marsh, Skibbereen, Co. Cork, P81 YY31
Woodcock Smokery, Gortbrack, Skibbereen, West Cork, P81 FA03
Kerry:
Atlantic Irish Seaweed, Derrynane, Caherdaniel, Co. Kerry
Derrynane House, Darrynane More, Caherdaniel, Co. Kerry, V23 FX65
Dingle Distillery, Milltown, Dingle, Co. Kerry
Dingle Sheepdog Demonstrations, Fahan, Dingle, Co. Kerry
Foxy John’s, Main St, Dingle, Co. Kerry, V92 PD6F
Killarney Riding Stables, national park, Ballydowney, Killarney, Co. Kerry
Louis Mulcahy Pottery, Clogher, Ballyferriter Village, Co. Kerry, V92 NV04
Muckross Abbey, Muckross, Co. Kerry
Muckross House, Muckross, Killarney, Co. Kerry
Portmagee Whiskey, Barrack Hill, Doory, Portmagee, Co. Kerry, V23 V295
Ross Castle, Ross Rd, Ross Island, Killarney, Co. Kerry, V93 V304
Sunset Sauna Kerry + Coorna cafe, Coornagillagh, Tuosist, Co. Kerry
Weavers of Ireland, Henry St, Kenmare, Co. Kerry, V93 HF97
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Hero Image: Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula (© benedek/iStock)
