Travel 11 minutes 24 March 2025

The Wild Atlantic Way: A MICHELIN Guide Road Trip – Part 2

Explore the west coast of Ireland from Kilkee to Muff, taking in foodie favourites, sustainable stop-offs and plenty of Wild Atlantic Way adventures.

Passing through nine counties, the 2,600km-long Wild Atlantic Way is the perfect route for an immersive journey of discovery in the west of The Emerald Isle. The longest coastal route in the world, it begins in the north at the Inishowen Peninsula and winds its way down the coast to Kinsale in the south, offering some truly stunning scenery along the way.

We've divided our trip in two, with Part One beginning in Cork and ending in Kilkee and Part Two picking up the route from Kilkee and ending in Muff.

Part Two sees you sleeping in castles, exploring Ireland’s striking wilderness and stopping at some of the most spectacular viewpoints in Ireland as you travel along The Bay Coast and The Northern Headlands. This section of the route covers: The Shannon Estuary, West Clare and The Burren, Connemara, Killary Harbour, Clew Bay, Achill Island, Erris, Sligo, Donegal Bay, Slieve League Coast, Fanad Head and the Inishowen Peninsula.

Donegal Castle, County Donegal (© iStock/no_limit_pictures)
Donegal Castle, County Donegal (© iStock/no_limit_pictures)

West Clare and The Burren: Kilkee to Galway, 164km

Make your way to the heart of the Wild Atlantic Way route as you navigate from Kilkee to Galway. Stop along the way at spectacular ocean viewpoints, charming rural villages and secluded sandy coves.

Galway, County Galway (© iStock/no_limit_pictures)
Galway, County Galway (© iStock/no_limit_pictures)

Stay Along the Route

Your next stop is Gregan's Castle Hotel, not actually a castle at all but in fact a 250-year-old manor house. A favourite with many a famous name, it has an understatedly elegant country house style, comprising 20 bedrooms with a subtly modernised style, and numerous lounges, drawing rooms and libraries. Arguably the best part though, is its location, with its gardens looking out over both Galway Bay and the unique rocky landscape of The Burren. Make the most of this with a table by the window in their restaurant, while enjoying well-balanced dishes where the top-notch lamb is a particular highlight.

© Gregans Castle Hotel, Ballyvaughan
© Gregans Castle Hotel, Ballyvaughan

See and Do

Beeline to Kilkee and weave around the low-laying roads past sandy beaches and seaside villages, then shift gear for an uphill climb to The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark. Park up at Lislorkan North and follow the 12km out-and-back trail along the rugged limestone plateau to Doonagore Castle. Afterwards, stop for a drink in Doolin – a village filled with charming traditional pubs and thatched houses. Also nearby is Doolin Music House, which is a great spot for some live folk music.

From Doolin Pier, take a boat to explore the windswept Aran Islands – an archipelago of three well-connected historic islands with scenic walking trails and hidden beaches. Back on mainland Ireland, continue north to Doolin Cave and descend into limestone caverns filled with stalactites. If you’d rather be out in the open air, tour the area on horseback from the Mountain View Horse Riding Centre.

Pop to the colourful, creative town of Lisdoonvarna for some salmon tasting at The Burren Smokehouse, a sustainable family-run artisan business with over a century of history. Meet the birds of prey at Aillwee Burren Experience and explore a network of passages around a cave with 330 million years of geological history. Take a detour to the curious medieval stone ring fort ruins at Caherconnell Stone Fort. Ice cream addicts shouldn’t miss Linnalla Irish Ice Cream on the tiny Newquay peninsula – try a few scoops of their creamy frozen flavours made from the farm’s fresh milk.

Finish in Galway and explore the city on foot – don’t miss Eyre Square, The Latin Quarter and Quay St.

The Cliffs of Moher, County Clare (© iStock/Dawid Kalisinski Photography)
The Cliffs of Moher, County Clare (© iStock/Dawid Kalisinski Photography)

Dine

This part of the route is rich in choices, so you may need to stay a few days if you want to try them all!

First up is Vaughan's Anchor Inn, set in the quaint fishing village of Liscannor. Being family-run for over 40 years, it has a heartwarmingly welcoming feel. Local, sustainably sourced seafood from the local day boats leads the way and everything from the bread to the ice cream is made in-house. A huge fish tank sits in the wood-panelled walls of the dining room, which has a slightly smarter feel than you might initially expect.

Moving on to Doolin, Homestead Cottage makes a lovely spot for drinks on the terrace as you watch the sunset. The characterful interior is just as appealing though, with its rustic stone floors, walls and fireplace. Beautifully presented modern dishes showcasing fresh Irish produce display a deft touch, earning this restaurant One Michelin Star. Another strong choice is Oar, which offers views out towards the Cliffs of Moher. Here, appealing dishes are prepared with care and feature a few more adventurous flavour combinations for you to try.

Gregan's Castle comes up next on your route (see above), before you arrive at the final stop of this section in Galway, where there's plenty of variety on offer. One-Michelin-Starred Aniar is an appealing spot, where the local area sets the tone for both the chic, moody décor and the back-to-nature cooking. Micro-seasonal dishes cleverly contrast textures and temperatures, and some even arrive accompanied by poems. If you're sustainably-minded, then Michelin Green Star Kai is your spot. Almost two places in one, it offers a one-course lunch followed by treats from their bakery and full three-course dinners which are guided by the seasons and local, organic produce. Your final dining option is Michelin Bib Gourmand awarded daróg, a passionately run little wine bar where the team have an infectious enthusiasm for wine and particularity for small artisan organic and biodynamic producers. These are accompanied by flavoursome small plates that offer great value for money.

Vaughan's Anchor Inn, Liscannor (© Julie Dunin/Vaughan's Anchor Inn)
Vaughan's Anchor Inn, Liscannor (© Julie Dunin/Vaughan's Anchor Inn)

Connemara: Galway to Clifden, 176km

Leave the rounded hills around Galway and move through vast patches of bogland – a thriving habitat for rare birds, plants and invertebrate species. Providing a dramatic backdrop to the flatter foreground as you approach Clifden are the craggy peaks of The Twelve Bens.

Rosmuck, County Galway (© iStock/Wirestock)
Rosmuck, County Galway (© iStock/Wirestock)

Stay Along the Route

As you might expect, Galway offers more than one choice of hotel.

The first, The G Hotel Galway, perfectly captures the bohemian spirit of the city. Its modern exterior gives nothing way, but inside Philip Treacy has given it a striking makeover with vivid pops of colour and an intriguing mix of antique and contemporary furnishings. Spaces throughout the hotel lean towards either bright and glamorous or dimly lit and sultry; the impressive two-floored spa comes under the latter.

The Dean Galway is stylish too, but in a less dramatic way. Sister to the Dublin original, it's packed full of thoughtful high-end touches, from Nespresso machines and Smeg fridges to Marshall sound systems, Rega turntables and Martin acoustic guitars. The rooftop terrace is the perfect spot for everything from breakfast to evening cocktails overlooking the city.

Heading 7km west of Galway, you'll reach the coastal village of Barna and The Twelve Hotel Galway. Its enticingly lit exterior conceals stylish rooms featuring bespoke furnishings and works from local artists, while bedrooms range from Luxury Suites with private bars to the heartwarming Funnymoon Suite. As well as a bar and restaurant there's also a pizzeria with a deli attached.

© The G Hotel Galway
© The G Hotel Galway

See and Do

Start your day with a walk along Salthill Promenade, which is lined with historic bars and offers calming views of the sea, then pick up some hand-crafted jewellery, leather goods and ceramics in the craft village of Spiddal. If you’re an intrepid ocean-lover, visit Ireland’s first solar-powered dive centre; as well as guided dives through Tra an Doilin’s kelp forests and seagrass meadows, Atlantic Scuba Adventures organises coastal biodiversity walks and snorkelling tours.

Jump in the car, take the R374 and island hop until you reach Gorumna and Lettermullan. Hike around Gorumna Walk Loop, stopping at Coral Strand Beach – where crystalline waters flood tiny rock pools and lap ashore the smokey-white sand. Further west is Inishnee Island, which offers 360° views of Bertraghboy Bay. Before you reach Dog’s Bay, swing by Roundstone Music and Crafts.

Spiddal Craft Village and Café, County Galway (© iStock/noel bennett)
Spiddal Craft Village and Café, County Galway (© iStock/noel bennett)

Dine

If you've not yet tired of the fabulous views, then Owenmore is where you should head. Located within the 18th-century Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, there are few places with a more impressive view when it comes to dining. Spectacular views over the grounds and river can be seen from both the dining room and terrace and it feels particularly right eating produce from the region when accompanied by this outlook. The beautifully constructed modern dishes certainly do the whole experience justice.

Owenmore, Ballynahinch (© Barry Murphy)
Owenmore, Ballynahinch (© Barry Murphy)

Killary Harbour: Clifden to Westport, 165km

Wind your way along the Sky Road where you can take in the panoramic island and ocean views while you roll towards Westport.

Killary Fjord, Leenane, Connemara, County Galway (© iStock/bradleyhebdon)
Killary Fjord, Leenane, Connemara, County Galway (© iStock/bradleyhebdon)

See and Do

Visit the dinky Omey Island on foot or four wheels during low tide and hike around the central lough, stopping at the pristine beaches along the way. There are also plenty of scenic walking trails in Connemara National Park. For dramatic views of the surrounding loughs, wildlands and ocean, take the well-marked stone path to the top of Diamond Hill – an isolated 442m peak.

Refuel at DK Connemara Oysters with a tasting experience or learn how the eco-friendly oyster farm works to protect the area's biodiversity on a tour. Snap a photo of Aasleagh Falls on your way to the 16km-long Killary Fjord – one of Ireland’s three glacial fjords. When you pass the head of the inlet, you’ll be entering County Mayo. Around the next corner is the Lost Valley, where you can pre-book a guided cultural adventure with the Bourke family, who have owned and farmed the land for over a century.

Soak up the mountain and sea views from Old Head Beach then tackle a challenging climb to the 764m summit of Croagh Patrick mountain. After an eastbound stretch to Westport, have a look around the 18th-century mansion and estate of Westport House.

Westport, County Mayo (© iStock/chrisdorney)
Westport, County Mayo (© iStock/chrisdorney)

Dine

There's an appealingly homely feel to the perennially popular An Port Mór in Westport, which is run by amiable Chef-Owner Frankie Mallon. His two fixed-price menus are named after nearby mountain ranges, with Néifinn Bheag offering good value and Cruach Phádraig a little more adventure. The flavoursome, classically based cooking is a showcase of the local larder, from artisan cheeses to freshly caught seafood.

© An Port Mór, Westport
© An Port Mór, Westport

Clew Bay, Achill Island and Erris: Westport to Ballina, 451km

Comprising two official stages, Clew Bay to Achill Island (Westport to Belmullet) and Achill Island to Erris (Bellmullet to Ballina), this wild and windswept section will take you around loughs, rivers and islands. Take advantage of the scenic walking trails around here and pause at some of the ancient ruins. When you hit Belmullet, you’ll be entering the final section of the Wild Atlantic Way – The Northern Headlands.

The Dun Briste Sea Stack at Downpatrick Head, North Mayo (© iStock/walshphotos)
The Dun Briste Sea Stack at Downpatrick Head, North Mayo (© iStock/walshphotos)

Stay Along the Route

Set in 100 acres of woodland in the heart of the Moy Valley, the Mount Falcon Country House Hotel is an idyllic spot for unwinding in nature. Another former castle, but this time of more recent vintage, its wooden-shuttered windows, chandeliers and antique-style furnishings give it an air of timeless elegance. Bedrooms in the original house are unerringly classical, while the uniquely designed self-catering lodges bring a pleasingly modern – yet sympathetic – edge to proceedings. After a long day's walk, you can look forward to sinking into the heated pool, surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the grounds.

© Mount Falcon Country House Hotel, Ballina
© Mount Falcon Country House Hotel, Ballina

See and Do

Start your day with a cycle along the Great Western Greenway – try some or all of the 42km route near Westport with unparalleled views of the Mulranny Coast. As you steer around the edge of Clew Bay, glance left to spot around 120 tiny islands dotted across the water.

Spend a while exploring Achill Island – where you can find everything from a spa with seaweed baths to a deserted mountainside village and an outdoor sculpture exhibit. In the far west of the island, you can try some wind-driven water sports at Keel Lough, relax on the sheltered Keel Beach or walk along the ridge of Croaghaun mountain, which drops vertically into the ocean.

Continue through the wilderness of County Mayo past Wild Nephin National Park to Belmullet for a dip in the tidal pool. Continue to Blacksod Lighthouse at the far end of the Mullet Peninsula. East from here, you can stop at the isolated fishing village of Porturlin. Walk in the footsteps of St Patrick at Downpatrick Head for views of the colourful, layered Dun Briste sea stack.

The White Cliffs of Ashleam Bay, Achill Island, County Mayo (© iStock/chrisdorney)
The White Cliffs of Ashleam Bay, Achill Island, County Mayo (© iStock/chrisdorney)


Sligo and Donegal Bay: Ballina to Donegal Town, 192km

Discover hidden waterfalls, tranquil lakes and the isolated Irish towns of Sligo and Donegal Bay.

Castle Dow and Sheephaven Bay, Creeslough, County Donegal (© iStock/Eleonora Grigorjeva)
Castle Dow and Sheephaven Bay, Creeslough, County Donegal (© iStock/Eleonora Grigorjeva)

Stay Along the Route

County Sligo has inspired plenty of literary legends and expressionist artists over the years and the Castle Dargan Estate itself was a favourite haunt of poet and dramatist W.B. Yeats;  you'll find the remains of the original castle beside the championship golf course in 170 acres of rolling grounds. The main Castle Dargan House retains its historic charm, with the likes of Edwardian antiques and paintings, while the newer wing and the Walled Garden Apartments sport a sleek, modern feel. End your day at the spa, sipping herbal tea and taking in the view from an outdoor wild Atlantic seaweed bath!

© Castle Dargan, Ballygawley
© Castle Dargan, Ballygawley

See and Do

From Ballina, drive along the River Moy and continue past sleepy seaside villages until you reach Knocknarea. You can climb to the top of this cairn which contains tombs, and according to legend is the resting place of warrior king Eoghan Bell. Eye up the waves below at Strandhill Beach – an excellent spot for surfing all year round thanks to its beach break.

Nearby is the town of Sligo which straddles the Garavogue River and is known for its history and literary heritage. Tucked away in the countryside is the Devil’s Chimney hiking area and Lough Glencar – a tranquil lake at the base of a limestone rockface, with a waterfall tumbling from its 150m-high ledge.

Head along the N15 and take a short detour to Lough Melvin to explore the eco-park and woodland lakeside trails – or sign-up to workshop at The Organic Centre, where you could find yourself foraging, fermenting or even making a dry stone wall! Once you’re back on the road, stop at Ballyshannon – believed to be Ireland’s oldest town. On from here is Donegal Town, which is home to a 15th-century castle.

Carrowmore Megalithic Tombs, Sligo, County Sligo (© iStock/Simon Roughneen)
Carrowmore Megalithic Tombs, Sligo, County Sligo (© iStock/Simon Roughneen)

Dine and Overnight

At this point in your route it's worth heading slightly inland, toward the Irish border. First you'll reach the family-run The Oarsman in Carrick-on-Shannon, a traditional pub with a lively, laid-back atmosphere, a curiosity-filled interior and plenty of that famously warm Irish hospitality. Flavour-packed cooking ensures that the simple things are done well and the specially brewed lager and lovely deli add a personalised touch. There's also an upstairs restaurant which opens later in the week.

A little further on you'll find MacNean House in Blacklion; here, celebrity chef Neven Maguire runs both a cookery school and this ever-popular restaurant. With its plush interior, formal service, top-notch ingredients and detailed cooking, this is a great place for a romantic meal or a celebration. There are also some equally smart bedrooms available, making this a complete package when visiting the area.

The Oarsman, Carrick-on-Shannon (© Conor Maher)
The Oarsman, Carrick-on-Shannon (© Conor Maher)

Slieve League Coast, Fanad Head and Inishowen Peninsula: Donegal to Muff, 530km

The final part of our journey comprises three official sections: the Slieve League Coast (Donegal Town to Bunbeg), Fanad Head (Bunbeg to Letterkenny) and the Inishowen Peninsula (Letterkenny to Muff). This part of Ireland provides a dramatic finale to the Wild Atlantic Way road trip with towering coastal cliffs, untouched beaches and iconic stop-off points.

Glenveagh Castle Gardens, Glenveagh National Park, County Donegal (© iStock/Shawn Williams)
Glenveagh Castle Gardens, Glenveagh National Park, County Donegal (© iStock/Shawn Williams)

Stay

On approach, you’ll immediately get a taste for Lough Eske Castle's magnificence from its pale sandstone façade and turreted tower (during its initial construction in the 1400s, each piece of local stone was hand carved and carried by Clydesdale horses along a specially constructed roadway). While the main building is surrounded by perfectly preened lawns backing onto a forest, the spa sits on the edge of Lough Eske’s waters, looking out onto the Blue Stack Mountains. Inside, the décor reflects its traditional castle elegance, while the garden suites embrace a more sophisticated contemporary design. For a special treat, book the private Lake Lodge.

© Lough Eske Castle, Donegal
© Lough Eske Castle, Donegal

See and Do

Journey west from Donegal Town and stop at the Muckros Head viewpoint and the Bunglass Point vistas. Close to here are the magnificent Slieve League cliffs – two popular routes to consider are Bunglass Road and the Pilgrims Path. Steer around the peninsula until you hit the scenic swimming spot, Maghera Beach, and Assaranca Waterfall.

The unassuming town of Ardara is home to skilled tweed craftsmen – at Eddie Doherty’s Handwoven Tweeds and Triona Donegal Tweed Centre, you can watch demonstrations on this traditional art. Another example of Irish mastery can be found in The Crossy Distillery, which sits near the scenic Tra Na Carraige Finne viewpoint.

As you enter the northernmost roads of Ireland, stop at Glenveagh National Park to wander around the lake, deer forest and mountains. Pass Doe Castle on the way to Fanad Head Lighthouse – pop in to support this non-profit visitor attraction steeped in history. Continue to Malin Head to stand at the edge of mainland Ireland.

Fanad Head Lighthouse, County Donegal (© iStock/Denzil Lacey)
Fanad Head Lighthouse, County Donegal (© iStock/Denzil Lacey)

Dine and Overnight

With its rural surroundings, homely wooden décor and 1760s origins, you’ll feel a welcoming familiarity as you step inside the truly charming interior of the remotely set Olde Glen Bar in Glen. Sit in the main room to sample a great range of local beers, whiskeys and gins, then head to the the large dining room (Weds-Sun) or the tree-covered terrace if you're after a meal. The fixed price menu showcases plenty of seafood from local shores and the fermented potato bread is a must for starters. Five cosy bedrooms are available if you want to stay over; if it's only a flying visit, then order a sandwich from the Bia Box to eat either on-site or to take away.

An evening hosted by the Molloy family – where siblings and cousins all work together – will certainly put a smile on your face. The charm of the Lemon Tree in Letterkenny doesn’t just come from its wholesome hospitality, but also from its attention to detail. The team pride themselves on creating contemporary, seasonal dishes from ingredients supplied by local producers and even the beer is brewed in Donegal.

The Olde Glen Bar, Glen (© Roisin Sweeney)
The Olde Glen Bar, Glen (© Roisin Sweeney)

Address Book

With too much to feature in the main article, here are some recommendations within each county.

Galway:
Aillwee Burren Experience, Ballycahill, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare
Atlantic Scuba Adventures, An Crompán, Carrowroe South, Carraroe Industrial Estate, Co. Galway, H91 X4WH
Caherconnell Stone Fort, Caherconnell, Carran, Co. Clare, V95 YK31
Curraghduff Farm, Curraghduff West, Oughterard, Co. Galway, H91 R2Y7
Derroura Mountain Bike Trail, N59, Letterfore, Co. Galway
DK Connemara Oysters, Ballinakill Bay, Dawros, Letterfrack, Co. Galway, H91 AC6K
Doolin Cave, Craggy Corridan West, Doolin, Co. Clare
Doolin Music House, R478, Aughiska More, Doolin, Co. Clare, V95 WY06
Linnalla Irish Ice Cream, New Quay, The Burren, Co. Clare, H91KP84
Mountain View Horse Riding Centre, Lisdoonvarna, Co. Clare
Roundstone Music and Crafts, Monastery Rd, Ervallagh, Roundstone, Co. Galway
The Burren Smokehouse, Kincora Rd, Rathbaun, Lisdoonvarna, Co. Clare, V95 HD70

Mayo:
Achill Island Seaweed Baths, River Keel, Achill, Co Mayo, F28 HT97
Lost Valley, Silver Strand, Doovilra, Louisburgh, Co. Mayo
Ronan Halpin Gallery, Keel, Achill Island, Co Mayo, F28 Y381
Westport House, Quay Rd, Westport Demesne, Westport, Co. Mayo, F28 K6K6

Leitrim:
The Organic Centre, Sraud (Conolly), Rossinver, Co. Leitrim

Donegal:
Eddie Doherty’s Handwoven Tweeds, Front Street, Ardara, Co. Donegal
Fanad Head Lighthouse, Fanad Head, Shannagh, Co. Donegal
The Crossy Distillery, Drioglann Chroithlí, Killindarragh, Co. Donegal, F92 XHH5
Triona Donegal Tweed Centre, Main St, Drumbaran, Ardara, Co. Donegal



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Hero Image: Sky Road, near Clifden, County Galway (© ZambeziShark/iStock)

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