The opulent mansion that houses Apicius was built in 1860 and was first owned by the Schneider family, then by film director Luc Besson, who used it to set up the offices of his production company. The restaurant which now stands here is named after the ancient Roman epicurean who is said to have written the first-ever cook book, and its history is closely linked to that of Chef Jean-Pierre Vigato. He was for many years the Head Chef at Apicius, before handing over the reins in 2018 to Mathieu Pacaud, who is ably assisted by Executive Chef Matthieu Lecomte. The restaurant's décor is by François-Joseph Graf, who has succeeded in instilling delicate contemporary touches amidst the historical grandeur and the succession of small lounges. We sent our Inspectors along to report back on exactly what it's like to visit this true gem of the Parisian dining scene.
Arrival
“Arriving from the Rue d'Artois, near the Champs-Elysées, we entered a huge green courtyard which, until a few years ago, served as a parking lot for (luxury) cars. After crossing a lush garden of bamboo, shrubs, and various plants, then following a number of winding paths, we reached the restaurant's entrance. It's a strange feeling to experience a bucolic, even countryside-like, atmosphere in the middle of Paris, where birdsong has replaced the sound of car horns in a matter of seconds. It's like time has stood still for the duration of your visit."As you enter a large vestibule within the Apicius mansion, you feel the weight of the building's history. The décor shows off moldings, coffered ceilings, a frescoed ceiling, and majestic chandeliers. As one of our Inspectors says: “It's luxurious but not ostentatious. The décor is not overwhelming, but opulent on a more human scale."
First Steps
“At the entrance, the team greet you with a smile, discreetly and efficiently. The restaurant's manager knows exactly how to be attentive, present, and adaptable to each individual customer. The room itself is luminous, thanks to bow windows that provide lovely views of the luscious garden. We asked to change tables, which was no problem at all for the capable team. Our table was beautifully set, with a quality tablecloth and fresh flowers."The lunch menu, with several choices, is offered at under €100, which is far less than the price of your typical Parisian palace, and could be a good deal for a special occasion, given the beauty of the premises. For wine lovers, prices by the glass, while not stratospheric, are relatively high, starting at €20, which is the norm for an establishment of this standing.
The Cooking
One of our Inspectors opted for the aforementioned lunch menu during their visit, and here's what they thought:“After a fine appetizer featuring pike-perch prepared as a ceviche, we moved onto the main course, where cod was put front and center. A generous and finely tuned dish, it was anchored by a perfectly cooked medallion of the quality fish, poached in a fragrant fennel and aniseed broth, and complemented by a watercress sauce which had a pleasant vegetal touch. A few razor clams and fennel confit completed the dish.
"For dessert, the pastry chef crafted an elegant, apple-based creation. A tartare of apples and kiwi had a pronounced fruity flavor, was laid on a fine apple jelly, and was encircled by a delicate meringue that was both crunchy and delicate. An excellent agastache sorbet added freshness to a dessert that wasn't too sweet, but was perfectly balanced thanks to just the right amount of acidity."
The à la carte dishes at Apicius are also mightily appealing, like XXL-sized morels stuffed with crab. Another eye-catching dish is the pearly white turbot, lightly grilled and garnished with an appetizing 'jardinière de printemps' (crisp baby zucchini, wild asparagus, and carrot tops) and a fine mousseline of carrot, then enriched with a slice of 'gambero rosso'. Two fine sauces accompany it: a frothy, airy saffron sabayon and a deep, intense bouillabaisse reduction with basil.
Summary
The Positives: In addition to the quality of the dishes (straightforward, generous and delicious), there's the wonderful tranquility of the garden and terrace, where we recommend enjoying a coffee at the end of the meal. It's even possible to dream of having a little siesta out here! Finally, let's not forget the professional and highly accommodating service team; for example, a paris-brest dessert that was supposed to be for sharing was kindly served, on request, in a single portion.The (Very Small) Negatives: The tables can be a little small, especially when they're filled with bread, appetizers, water etc.
The Good Deal: The lunch menu (€95) can be enjoyed, in season, in the garden. It's ideal for celebrating a special occasion, with family, friends or as a couple.
Reservations: In our case, two weeks before our lunch.
Dress Code: No dress code is required, but do dress appropriately.
Hero Image: © Virginie Garnier/Apicius
