Some dreams start from table-side conversations. Such is the case for The Paris Pop-Up, an initiative sparked off by London chef Harry Cummins and Montreal-born sommelier Laura Vidal. The pair met at Frenchie restaurant in Paris, where Cummins was head chef. Back in 2012, pop-ups had yet to take off in the city of bread and butter, and the couple would use their weekends off to cook in friends' restaurants that were typically closed on Saturdays and Sundays.
In 2014, both Cummins and Vidal began doing longer pop-up stints and takeovers at restaurants. Together with another partner, Julia Mitton, the trio officially started The Paris Pop-Up. We sit with them to ask them more.
When did pop-ups start becoming trendy in France?
In around 2009 when there was an economic crisis in France, it was a very hard time. So people were more open to eating food that was delicious but cost them less in a more laid-back setting. It was not the time to open a restaurant in France, but a pop-up.
In some of the big three-Michelin-starred restaurants, some chefs were inviting friends to their kitchens to cook. It also marked the start of the bistro-nomy movement; chefs were being more simple with the decoration of their restaurants, you saw more wooden tables and rustic settings but with really delicious products.
In around 2009 when there was an economic crisis in France, it was a very hard time. So people were more open to eating food that was delicious but cost them less in a more laid-back setting. It was not the time to open a restaurant in France, but a pop-up.
In some of the big three-Michelin-starred restaurants, some chefs were inviting friends to their kitchens to cook. It also marked the start of the bistro-nomy movement; chefs were being more simple with the decoration of their restaurants, you saw more wooden tables and rustic settings but with really delicious products.
Harry and Laura during a pop-up at KILN restaurant in London.
What were some challenges you faced with the industry when starting Paris Pop-Up?
A lot of restaurants didn't understand at first why they would want to share their space with someone else. Using empty spaces is our philosophy in general; it ties in with our take on abundance and not going towards rare products from across the world, but giving the same amount of attention to local produce.
What about the customers?
Customers also didn't really grasp the pop-up concept at the start. They'll wonder what was going to happen after the pop-up ends, or where the secret locations were going to be. I must say, though, that they responded really well to this idea of creating exciting moments. It's human nature to give value to something fleeting.
A lot of restaurants didn't understand at first why they would want to share their space with someone else. Using empty spaces is our philosophy in general; it ties in with our take on abundance and not going towards rare products from across the world, but giving the same amount of attention to local produce.
What about the customers?
Customers also didn't really grasp the pop-up concept at the start. They'll wonder what was going to happen after the pop-up ends, or where the secret locations were going to be. I must say, though, that they responded really well to this idea of creating exciting moments. It's human nature to give value to something fleeting.
How does the pop-up menu change with each new location you appear in?
Our menus are always product-driven. We do research on the country we’re going to. In Singapore, for instance, we went to all the wet markets, tried samples of local farms’ products, went to Edible Garden City. No one menu we have created is ever the same, and we take inspiration from our travels. So for instance, we could use a local ingredient cooked a different way — like the chye poh flat bread. The entrance to the door of any culture is through food and language.
Our menus are always product-driven. We do research on the country we’re going to. In Singapore, for instance, we went to all the wet markets, tried samples of local farms’ products, went to Edible Garden City. No one menu we have created is ever the same, and we take inspiration from our travels. So for instance, we could use a local ingredient cooked a different way — like the chye poh flat bread. The entrance to the door of any culture is through food and language.
The dining area at Open Farm Community in Singapore, where Vidal and Cummins did a three-week pop-up.
What are some interesting experiences you’ve had travelling around the world?
There was this hilarious moment when we were in Fes, Morocco. I had to go on this crazy quest for turkey for a Christmas dinner we were going to put on. I had no idea where to find a turkey and ended up talking to the laundry guy who told me he knew where to find these birds.
I had to walk through an open market, under poles draped with undergarments, shove through crowds before I finally turned a corner and saw like 10 old men surrounded by 25 live turkeys pecking about. Then, I had touch the birds all over to make sure I chose the plumpest, carry it in my arms to the butcher, before taking it back to the restaurant to clean and pluck the turkey.
We ended up serving that turkey traditional style, just simply roasted in the oven and stuffed. The diners said it was the best turkey they ever had.
There was this hilarious moment when we were in Fes, Morocco. I had to go on this crazy quest for turkey for a Christmas dinner we were going to put on. I had no idea where to find a turkey and ended up talking to the laundry guy who told me he knew where to find these birds.
I had to walk through an open market, under poles draped with undergarments, shove through crowds before I finally turned a corner and saw like 10 old men surrounded by 25 live turkeys pecking about. Then, I had touch the birds all over to make sure I chose the plumpest, carry it in my arms to the butcher, before taking it back to the restaurant to clean and pluck the turkey.
We ended up serving that turkey traditional style, just simply roasted in the oven and stuffed. The diners said it was the best turkey they ever had.
