MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Set on a tree-lined street in the Upper East Side, Sushi Noz may blend in with its surrounds, but glide past the sliding door and suddenly you’re no longer in New York. Every detail has been painstakingly selected (and imported) to recreate an intimate Japanese refuge and the result is breathtaking. The 200-year-old hinoki sushi counter, for instance, is not only the heart of the room but it’s also a design centerpiece; aged for 40 years in Chef Nozomu Abe’s hometown of Hokkaido, it’s soft, smooth and stunning. There is a clear element of luxury coursing through the veins of this hideaway, and the eight seats at the counter only magnify the exclusivity quotient. While the omakase often resembles a generous gift from the chef, this rendition feels like every bite has been designed solely for you. Diners are in for a treat as this culinary guru seasons rice, deftly slices fish and sears fatty tuna collar under the blazing-hot binchotan. His parade unveils several otsumami and pieces of Edo-style nigiri-smoked, seared and torched to deliver maximum flavor. Otsumami, or "snacks," are perhaps a misnomer, as these masterfully primed plates containing pristine ingredients are an absolute highlight.