That you have to wander the aisles of a supermarket in search of the entrance merely adds to the feeling that you have the code to something secret, something special, something exclusive. Some two and a half hours later you leave this stunning restaurant feeling joyously replete but also with some regret that it’s all over.
There are tables around the edge of the attractive room but sitting at the walnut counter watching the focused and practiced movements of the team is an integral part of the experience. Everyone is served at the same time by a smart black-suited team who prove that when service is really good, you barely notice it.
Chef César Ramirez’s cooking is an almost subtractive form of cuisine, with the emphasis on allowing the natural flavors of ingredients to come through. The 13 or so small but perfectly formed dishes confirm a chef at the height of his powers as there is nothing showy or extraneous here. It’s just an absolute meticulousness in ensuring that the key ingredient, whether that’s a Scottish langoustine or A5 Wagyu beef from Miyazaki, delivers its true essence. The sauces, which are of extraordinary depth, play their part in this.