MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Unlike its original downtown Brooklyn location, excited diners must now navigate the labyrinth of Brooklyn Fare's grocery aisles to arrive at this illustrious, gorgeous and gleaming dining room. Inside, everything centers around the kitchen, shining with copper pans overhead, bright white tiles and fine stemware. Prime seats are located along the finely honed and brushed wood counter, though there is table seating. Chef César Ramirez's dedication to his kitchen remains as unchanged as ever. He may be a visionary, but this cuisine refrains from being showy, keeping simplicity and astounding precision at the heart of each bite. Great wizardry is displayed in the sauces, which are consistently brilliant accents to high-level ingredients. One course may showcase a cut of near-translucent kinmedai in an electrifying blend of ginger and turnips. Cod is robata-grilled until it pulls apart with ease, then bathed in delicate vin jaune that is as smooth as butter, with a bit of earthy chanterelle cream. Delicate and fleshy, grilled quail beneath crackling skin, is served with a duo of barbecue and mustard sauces of tremendous depth. Expect a generous hand with luxuries, like caviar, foie gras and uni.