Sometimes you need a restaurant that runs on wheels so you can get on with the task at hand—be it impressing your client or date—without wondering if anyone is ever going to take your order or bring your wine. Chef Boulud’s place at the Surrey Hotel is one such example, as it offers these very services along with a good dose of privacy yet cordiality, style yet warmth. The cuisine is ostensibly French but the four different menus allow you to plough your own culinary furrow. You can stick to the Gallic classics like duck rillettes; go strictly seasonal; or be inspired by the farmer’s market. If you fancy a more international persuasion, then opt for the “Le Voyage” menu and you might find yourself enjoying a Vietnamese-inspired loup de mer "cha ca. "