The opening of Atomix in 2018 brought about a paradigm shift in the city’s appreciation of Korean food. Owners Junghyun Park and his wife Ellia not only serve the most exquisite multicourse menu, but have also created a truly beautiful space inside this Gramercy brownstone in which to enjoy it. This becomes quickly apparent, as you’re led into the lounge for pre-prandial drinks and snacks before being seated at the three-sided, 14-seat counter—that enormous care has gone into every detail, from the colors and the uniforms to the chopsticks and the bowls.

Competing with all this style and elegance could be a challenge but the food is equally memorable. Dishes are delicate, yet satisfying and display extraordinary finesse and detail. The banchan alone will alert you that something special is happening here and whether pickling, curing, fermenting or grilling it’s apparent this is one with a mastery of all techniques. And the ingredients, be it Australian abalone, Hokkaido uni or Wagyu from Miyazaki are equally exemplary.

To supplement the already charming service, custom-designed cards explaining the make-up of each dish and the inspiration behind it are presented with each course.