A dramatic space in a former warehouse is made even more theatrical by clever lighting: the darkness of the dining room is juxtaposed with the brightness of the open kitchen, which sits on one side of the room like a stage, but your eyes will be drawn inexorably towards the white-jacketed chefs as they go about their work with quiet efficiency. Eating here is serious business, but happily the place isn’t blighted by a monastic atmosphere—a contented buzz fills the room, helped along by the chefs who deliver the dishes themselves and describe them with contagious enthusiasm.

A warm "consomme" poured over Oscietra caviar and roasted new potatoes emits sweet and flavorful notes. Then poached trout over curds is boosted with salted white currants, lichen, and birch; while a coin of sourdough is enriched by smoked trout belly, roe, and preserved truffle.

Ice cream made from bedstraw, caramel made from meadowsweet, and an elegant presentation of "confections" further epitomize this new Nordic cuisine that celebrates man’s relationship with nature and the changing seasons. It’s clever without being self-congratulatory, original without being gimmicky and complex without being complicated.