Congratulations to Ian Krupp of Anajak Thai, MICHELIN Guide California 2024 Sommelier of the Year, presented in partnership with Franciacorta!
One of the earliest Thai restaurants in LA, Anajak Thai has delighted locals with its iconic dishes for over 43 years. Its buzzy, casual atmosphere might not be what most people imagine as a setting for serving fine wines, and the bold, high impact flavors of its Thai cuisine may not make obvious partners for pairings—but sommelier and wine director Ian Krupp has created a singular program that attracts connoisseurs and neophytes alike.
First introduced to wine through working at Two MICHELIN Star and Green Star Providence and One MICHELIN Star Kali, Krupp has used his expertise to expand upon Anajak Thai owner Justin Pichetrungsi’s foundation. Going beyond the expected realm of Riesling (though the list is certainly no slouch in that department), Krupp’s list spans an impressive breadth of Burgundy and beyond, served in a friendly and approachable way. Most recently, he has begun collaborating directly with wineries themselves to make custom wines for Anajak Thai guests.
How were you introduced to the world of wine?
It was by accident. I was in school for classical music and had a job at Providence restaurant here in LA, and I started as a glass polisher. I discovered wine because we were pouring the wine for the wine pairings, and the wine director Drew Langley said, ‘Hey man, if you're really interested, I'll take you under my wing, let's hang out more and pop some bottles.’ I ended up working for him at Kali restaurant here in LA, and then he said, ‘You're going to be picking out the wine for the restaurant now.’
What are you drinking these days?
A lot of Riesling. We love our Riesling. That's the easy fastball for Asian food, but I also really lean towards Burgundy. I've also really been enjoying a lot of Hungarian wine lately, Tokay in particular. With the mango sticky rice, it's an exceptional pairing. I usually have a hard time deciding on a bottle of wine, because I get bored. I just want new things all the time.
What's your ideal meal and pairing?
We have this thing we do at omakase, which has a fine dining arc. Ideally, we're not starting with champagne like normal people do. I like to start with dry white and you have some amuse-bouche, bluefin tuna, or hamachi crudo. If you do the supplement of fried chicken, break it up with champagne – I call it the champagne reset. When you get into the noodles and fried rice, I like a chilled down red like a Beaujolais. Mango Sticky Rice hits the table, and that's where you pull out some old Riesling or the Tokay.
What’s your criteria for adding a new wine to your list?
When thinking about producers, I like it to reflect the restaurant, instead of just being there so we can sell the wine. We like organic wines, very low intervention, just like our food. It's supposed to taste good based on what goes into it. Mindful sourcing is a big thing for us, just like how chefs go to the farmers' market or make sure they get the best seafood, same thing with the wine. We really like multigenerational wineries that have been in business for a long time, like us. It has to make sense together. It has to be delicious and free of flaws. Every wine has its quirks, and we like wines that speak for themselves.
What's your favorite nonalcoholic drink?
Coffee. I got this favorite cold brew over here, sent by Cooper Kupp of the Los Angeles Rams. A really cool gentleman.
Favorite wine-related film, book, magazine, etc?
The Drops of God manga is pretty awesome. Other than that, the SOMM TV series is really great. They do this cool champagne challenge. They make their best pairing, and you could do fried chicken, or oysters, or whatever you want. That for me is fun because champagne is so versatile.
How has your relationship with wine changed?
In the beginning, you're so excited about every single wine, and everything's so new. All of a sudden, you want to explore new things. And then you revert back to the classics. That's how my tastes have changed. You become a little bit less tolerant of wine flaws like Brettanomyces or mouse or VA. I'm an old grumpy man when it comes to wine sometimes. I'm not proud of it, but it is what it is.
What's the biggest misconception about being a sommelier, or wine in general, that you'd like to dispel?
A lot of people think it's super glamorous. We wear tuxedos and walk through the dining rooms with medallions on our chest and don't have tattoos all over our body, but I really want to dispel it. Everybody who works at the restaurant who's a sommelier is their own person, and I let them express themselves. Most of us are artists in some way, and I like to let that side of their personality shine. And it's the best thing, because you get all these different personalities instead of some uptight guy standing at your table. It can be so much fun and interactive.
Hero image: Will Blunt / Ian Krupp
