One of the most popular Los Angeles based purveyors of specialty foods and products to MICHELIN Guide restaurants, The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, is a gem nestled amongst the mainstays in Beverly Hills. Founded in 1967 by Colonel Sigmund Roth and purchased by Norbert Wabnig in 1978—The Cheese Store continues to be a staple of the California community due to the owner's passion for providing unique and tasty foods. And late last month, new owner (and longtime employee) Dominick DiBartolomeo ushered in the new era of The Cheese Store's storied history with the opening of an expansive space at 9705 South Santa Monica Boulevard.
Knowledgeable, passionate, and welcoming, DiBartolomeo and his team make everyone from locals to MICHELIN Guide Starred spot chefs feel as though they're family. With this in mind, we chatted with DiBartolomeo about what it's like to own Beverly Hills's beloved food emporium along with some of his Star clients including Nancy Silverton of One Star and Green Star Osteria Mozza and Green Star Chi Spaaca, and Bib Gourmand Pizzeria Mozza (a client since the early 1980s), Evan Funke of Mother Wolf and Felix (a client since 2000), and one of Beverly Hills's newest talents, Mattia Agazzi of One Star Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura (a client since 2020). Below, we get the dish on what makes The Cheese Store a favorite amongst the culinary cognoscenti.
New owner Dominick DiBartolomeo’s unconventional path to The Cheese Store began with his Italian-American roots in New York City. “Growing up in an Italian family, food is the center of everything we do,” says DiBartolomeo. “I was introduced to The Cheese Store in 2001 by a friend who worked down the block [on Beverly Drive]. I was working at a PR firm and hated my job. I was trying to find a job that would give me an opportunity to learn more about the food business.” From the first step, DiBartolomeo was in love and a new career path was forged. DiBartolomeo upped the ante on the store’s offerings with his own line of of fresh pastas, peppers, and sauces aptly named Domenico’s Foods, along with sourcing hard to find cheeses and specialty goods. This devotion to finding the best is what makes DiBartolomeo and the Cheese Store such a favorite amongst chefs.
It’s also the secret sauce behind some of California's best dishes. At Felix, Evan Funke uses a five-year aged Parmigiano Vacche Rosse for the Tagliolini Bolognese making each bite transportive, while at Mother Wolf and Funke, it’s all about the mozzarella. “It comes in every Thursday and they fly it in every Thursday,” adds Funke. “They've got to go to customs and wait for it and it's a really long and arduous process to get that fresh mozzarella into this country. I really respect Dom and his dedication to getting us that fresh cheese. Without it, the dishes don't speak the volume that they should.”
That sentiment is shared by Nancy Silverton whose Green Stars reinforce her commitment to the best and purest ingredients. “Dom’s products guarantee to enhance the quality of our food,” says Silverton who selects the 36-month aged white cow Parmigiano for her Tagliolini "Da Francescana” at Mozza. “I’m always in awe of the personal touch Dom brings to his business. That level of passion and knowledge is hard to come by and unbeatable."
It’s this winning hand that won over Mattia Agazzi when he made the move from Italy to Los Angeles to open Gucci Osteria. “I knew Massimo Bottura was opening [Gucci Osteria], but I really had no way of getting my foot in the door there,” says DiBartolomeo. However, a fortuitous rice order—“this amazing rice from Pavia, Italy, Riserva San Massimo”—and a phone call from Agazzi, and the rest is history. “It just so happened and to my blind luck, this was the same risotto they use at Osteria Francescana [owner Massimo Bottura’s Three Star and Green Star restaurant in Modena, Italy].” As a neighbor, Agazzi often pops by the Store to scope things out, talk shop, and even get a handmade bite from DiBartolomeo. “[He] and Norbert are both fathers to me,” says Agazzi. “I’ll walk in and Dominick says, ‘chef, you have to try this olive oil,’ and Norbert will make me a sandwich with some prosciutto crudo and cheese on a baguette.”
For Agazzi, Silverton, Funke and countless others, this feeling of home is what keeps everyone coming back. “I'll always try anything that Dom suggests,” says Silverton. “Dom recently turned us on to an Italian sheep blue cheese called Briacaccio a Vine, which is a blue cheese stuffed with raisins and infused with syrup. It's not something I'd normally buy, but I always trust Dom, so I tried it and really enjoyed it.” As for the man himself, he still has the same bewildered enthusiasm as his first day. “For me, food is very familial,” says DiBartolomeo. “Everyday I get to go into work and learn and taste something new.” Connection and discovery are at the heart of The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills.
READ MORE: The Life of a Cheesemaker
Hero image: Courtesy of The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills
