In the 2021 edition of the MICHELIN Guide Taipei & Taichung, together with the Bib Gourmand and MICHELIN-listed highlights, a total of 177 venues in Taipei and 69 venues in Taichung have been selected by the MICHELIN inspectors.
In Taipei, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, which has received one MICHELIN Star in the past three years, was promoted to 2 Stars this year. De Nuit , Fujin Tree Taiwanese Cuisine & Champagne (Songshan), and T+T were all selected for the first time and received one MICHELIN Star. Focusing in home-style Taiwanese cooking, Mipon was promoted to 1 Star from its MICHELIN-listed distinction, along with Mudan, which specializes in tempura, for a total of five new restaurants in Tapei that received one MICHELIN Star.
In Taichung, Oretachi No Nikuya, which relocated to a new address this March, regained its 1 Star affirmation, while Sur in Taichung’s North District was promoted to one MICHELIN Star.
Taipei
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
2 MICHELIN Stars, MICHELIN Guide Taipei & Taichung 2021
What the MICHELIN Inspectors Said: The moody interior uses the iconic black and red colour scheme as the other members of the group – sit at the counter to appreciate the atmosphere to the fullest. French classics are re-invented with skill, care and a great deal of aplomb; service is engaging, confident and thoughtful. Since 2019, the kitchen has been helmed by the first female head chef in the group’s Asian bases; she adds an ethereal touch to the distinctive cooking.
De Nuit
1 MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Taipei & Taichung 2021
What the MICHELIN Inspectors Said: Christened ‘by night’ in French, the room is aptly furnished in black, grey and blue and punctuated by brass trims and velvet upholstery. The young kitchen team are led by the head chef, a highly decorated graduate from Kaohsiung University of Hospitality and Tourism. He mindfully layers textures and flavours in every dish, while respecting the French traditions and seasonality of ingredients. Ask the sommelier to pair your food with wines or teas.
Fujin Tree Taiwanese Cuisine & Champagne (Songshan)
1 MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Taipei & Taichung 2021
What the MICHELIN Inspectors Said: If you think champagne doesn’t go well with Taiwanese cuisine, think again. Fujin Tree pairs re-imagined Taiwanese favourites with French bubbly to great effect. The young kitchen team put on their creative hats for new items every season, such as bottarga fried rice that exudes smoky aromas, and braised pork stew with mashed taro that melts in your mouth. The clever use of plant art in the well-lit room gives it a greenhouse vibe.
T+T
1 MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Taipei & Taichung 2021
What the MICHELIN Inspectors Said: The modern and simple design of T+T exudes relaxed chic, à la French bistronomy. The name is an abbreviation of ‘tapas tasting’, but rather than Spanish in origin, the small plates show strong Asian roots. Miso, ginseng, Dang Gui, Shaoxing wine and red bean cake are juxtaposed ingeniously to create gustatory nuances that pleasantly surprise. The 9-course tasting menu offers great value; the eclectic wine list carries some interesting choices.
Mipon
1 MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Taipei & Taichung 2021
What the MICHELIN Inspectors Said: Hailing from Yilan County, head chef Chen has almost 40 years of experience both at home and abroad, specialising in refined home-style Taiwanese cooking that boasts intricate details and modern twists. His signature dish stewed of Chinese cabbage with fish skin is topped with a fried crunchy garnish made with duck eggs from Yilan; while the honey mustard-glazed ribs exude a hint of tangy fruitiness thanks to black jujube dates in the sauce.
Mudan
1 MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Taipei & Taichung 2021
What the MICHELIN Inspectors Said: In a minimalistic room, the exquisite dinnerware is dramatically lit like works of art. The head chef understands his repertoire inside out – seasonal ingredients from Taiwan and Japan are coated in an ethereal batter, deep-fried to perfection in extra-virgin sesame oil, and served with sea salt, lemon juice and tentsuyu. Reservations are mandatory, with only two slots at 12:30 and 18:30. Food is prepared only after the whole party arrives.
Taichung
Oretachi No Nikuya
1 MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Taipei & Taichung 2021
What the MICHELIN Inspectors Said: Steps away from its previous address, this paradise for beef lovers keeps even the most jaded connoisseur happy – whole cows are shipped monthly from all over Japan and only the most premium cuts make it to the grill. You even get to try some rare cuts not found elsewhere. The young owner-chef knows his bovine so is more than happy to recommend a cut or offal. The friendly service and bustling vibe make it perfect for get-togethers.
Sur
1 MICHELIN Star, MICHELIN Guide Taipei & Taichung 2021
What the MICHELIN Inspectors Said: The dining room has a raw edge to it: exposed plaster walls, perforated brickworks, and faux rusty ironworks. The name ‘Sur’ reflects the young owner-chef’s vision to elevate ‘above and beyond’ everyday Taiwanese ingredients to haute cuisine through the use of modern techniques. It moved to this location in 2019 and serves a 11-course prix-fixe menu, which changes every season. Reservations are highly recommended as there are only 14 seats.
Header image is courtesy of Sur.
