When planning your next trip, you'd do well to make the south-west of France your priority. In this region you'll find not just the famous delights of Bordeaux, but also the charming medieval village of Saint-Émilion (30 minutes away by TER train). Founded in around 750 A.D. by a Breton monk, and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999, Saint-Émilion has a population of just 2,500... but more than a million tourists every year!
Troubled by the Hundred Years' War, Saint-Émilion regularly changed its allegiance, its Tour du Roy sometimes flying an English flag, sometimes a French one. Weakened by the Wars of Religion, the village had to wait until the second half of the 18th century to be reborn, thanks to its exceptional vineyards. Estates such as Château Ausone, Château Cheval Blanc and Château Angélus were to make it a legend. Recognized as an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in 1936, Saint-Émilion is small in size but immense in the renown of its terroirs, and is one of the 57 wine appellations that make up the great family of Bordeaux wines.
Bordeaux Wines: Plenty to Choose From
The Bordeaux region is one of the world's largest wine producers, with over 125,000 hectares of vineyards and 7,300 wineries. However, in recent years, the wine lists of Bordeaux's downtown wine bars have tended to focus on other regions of France, and even other producers from around the world.The reason? The high cost of wines, especially first and second growths. But also, perhaps most importantly, because of a new type of eco-conscious consumer who wants to buy wines that are better for the environment. Regularly criticized for its intensive farming practices and excessive use of chemicals in vineyards and cellars, the Bordeaux winegrowing region has had to question itself in the face of what some people call "Bordeaux bashing".
The Best of Bordeaux
Don't worry, we've only listed the best that Bordeaux has to offer here. That includes: estates working with respect for both people and the land, and those offering (by prior appointment) tastings of "crus classés"; wine bars with monumental selections and a vast choice of wines by the glass (sometimes as many as 40); impeccable restaurants ranging from simple bistros to Two MICHELIN Star establishments; terraces and ice cream parlors to enjoy the sunny days; and hotels ideally situated in the middle of vineyards.We'll also talk you through open-air markets, delicatessens, and wine shops, so you can stock up on souvenirs and treats. Museums and historical tours are also a must and, to cap it all off, Bordeaux is home to some of the country's best coffee shops. It's a little known fact, but when it comes to specialty coffee, the city has undoubtedly the most cutting-edge scene in France. All set? Let's get started!
Day 1: Discovering Bordeaux City Center
Morning
Set down your luggage in one of the 12 hotels we recommend in The MICHELIN Guide hotel selection. There's something here to suit every traveler, from the perfectly located and contemporary Mama Shelter (from €141.80/night, taxes included) to Les Sources de Caudalie, recently awarded Three Michelin Keys. The latter, located in the vineyards of the famous Château Smith Haut-Lafitte just a few minutes from the city center, boasts 15,000 bottles in its monumental cellar. It also houses a now-famous spa based on "vinotherapy", using grape seed derivatives and pulp in its treatments. The hotel's Two Star restaurant, La Grand'Vigne, draws from its Aquitaine surroundings, and its vegetables are to die for.
To get the day off to a good start, there's nothing like a good specialty coffee at Piha. Right in the center of town, its small, quiet terrace is the perfect place to savor exclusive, organic beans, carefully sourced and roasted on site every week. For instance, a pure Ethiopian arabica Garse Forest with notes of jasmine, blueberry, and brown sugar. If you're feeling hungry, they also serve carrot cake, cookies, and excellent croissants.
Just a five-minute walk away, say hello to the Grosse Cloche de Bordeaux. Adjacent to the Saint-Éloi church, this imposing gateway is one of the city's few surviving civil buildings from the Middle Ages. Continue your stroll through Old Bordeaux, in the pedestrianized or semi-pedestrianized streets of the Saint-Pierre district.
“Bordeaux is without doubt the most beautiful city in France,” wrote Stendhal in Voyage dans le midi de la France. It's easy to see why, as you stroll through its narrow streets. Follow the cobblestone streets of the quiet, less-frequented Saint Paul district to the nearby quays of the Garonne. You could also visit the Capucins market in the popular Saint-Michel district. A gourmet's paradise, it's open Tuesday to Friday, from 6am to 2pm; Saturdays and Sundays, from 5:30am to 2:30pm.
Lunch
Among the 36 restaurants we recommend in Bordeaux itself, one of the many great options is Bo-tannique. Located in a pleasant cobbled square, about 15 minutes' walk from the Capucins market, this pretty address offers cooking that's full of contrasts and freshness, all inspired by travels around the world. It also boasts an attractive wine list, mostly organic and natural.A 20-minute walk from Café Piha, we also recommend Symbiose. This casual eatery serves flavorful, straightforward dishes to a trendy clientele and offers unbeatable value for money at lunchtime. Another option, also a 20-minute walk from Piha, is the MICHELIN-Starred Ressources. The kitchen here provide a short menu of small plates to mix and match, with specialized garnishes and seasonings. There's no terrace, but there are over 700 ready-to-drink wines available (and many more stashed in the cellar).
Afternoon
Now it’s time to head for Bordeaux's trendiest district: les Chartrons. This ancient suburb, once a favorite haunt of English, Irish, and Flemish merchants, has been evolving since the 14th century. Today, it's a stronghold of antique dealers, art galleries, and interior design stores, and boasts a unique village atmosphere right in the heart of the city.On Rue Notre Dame, at number 102, the RN7 wine shop stands out from the crowd, stocking only Rhône Valley wines meticulously sourced by a true connoisseur. When the weather's fine, you can enjoy a glass at a few tables outside, facing the old vineyard planted on the opposite sidewalk. Right next door, try another curiosity: specialty coffee from the Hawaiian Islands at La 4ème Vague.
Alternatively, if you’d prefer to keep things wine-focused, visit the Cité du Vin, just a few minutes away by streetcar. This can be a busy place, so don't hesitate to reserve your seats in advance.
Dinner and Evening
Aperitifs and tapas can be found in the Saint-Pierre district at L'Univerre. With over 1,300 wines (from Bordeaux and beyond), Lim the sommelier guides customers with weekly selections by the glass and wines of the month. Also worth noting is the annex on the opposite side of the street, a grocery store and cellar specializing in Burgundy wines.Another option for your evening in the city is Aux Quatre Coins du Vin, situated a 10-minute streetcar ride away. A thick A4 leather binder proudly lists over 1,800 wines from France and around the globe, including 40 regularly changing choices by the glass. Enomatic machines allow you to taste the wine of your choice in the quantity you desire (3, 6, or 12 centiliters).
If you’d rather drink nothing but Bordeaux wines, head for the CIVB Wine Bar. On the first floor of an elegant 18th-century building, this bar run by the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bordeaux offers around 40 to 50 wines by the glass, at very attractive prices. You can grab a Bordeaux Supérieur for €2.50 or a Château Ladignac Cru Bourgeois 2011 for €3. Tourists and locals, novices and connoisseurs all mingle together to help create a unique atmosphere. As an added bonus, the terrace overlooks the city's Grand Théâtre. Please note: in the evening, you may have to queue!
Lesser-known, but in a great spot overlooking the Saint-Michel Basilica, is Julo, which offers a pretty terrace and over 700 wine selections. Julien Chive (nicknamed "Julo" by everyone here) focuses on local bottles from Bordeaux, produced by talented winemakers. Wines from the Rhône, Languedoc, Loire, and Jura are also available, as are a selection of international options.
Day 2: Escape to Saint-Émilion
Morning
From Bordeaux station, a TER train will take you to Saint-Émilion in around 30 minutes. Tickets are available for €5 if booked in advance. From Saint-Émilion station to the village itself, allow around 20 minutes on foot (shuttle buses are available for a fee).This is your advance warning to be well-organized and book your visit to Saint-Émilion’s underground passages through the Tourist Office. Dating back to the 12th century, they were dug into the limestone boulder around the famous historic grotto where, it is said, the hermit who founded the medieval town once lived. The passages form the submerged part of the spectacular troglodyte church, whose famous bell tower is featured on every postcard.
Top tip: the same Tourist Office can provide you with itineraries for bike rides through the vineyards, and lists which châteaux are open for tasting.
Lunch
It's impossible to miss the bright red façade of L'Envers du Décor. Located a stone's throw from the Tourist Office, this bistro is one of Saint-Émilion's oldest wine bars. It serves French market cuisine with an emphasis on local producers; you might sample slow-cooked shoulder of lamb or prime rib for two, not to mention a Grand Marnier soufflé for dessert. An excellent wine list features 500 choices (not all from Bordeaux) at reasonable prices, including a wide selection available by the glass. But this spot's greatest asset is its lovely sunny terrace, which is hidden from the street.Nearby, Logis de la Cadène is another good choice. Founded in 1848 and since acquired by the prestigious Château Angélus, this MICHELIN-Starred restaurant (and One Key hotel) has a unique charm, with its old golden stones and wisteria climbing up the terrace pergola. Having arrived in September 2023, Chef Thibaut Gamba offers refined, delicate dishes which utilize produce sourced locally or from the restaurant’s own farm. Wine lovers beware: the wine list includes several hundred vintages from the world's greatest vineyards, including some from Château Angélus, so you may spend all night trying to choose.
Feeling like you want to get away from it all for a while? Located at the top of a small hill (the highest point in Saint-Émilion), Château Troplong-Mondot's Les Belles Perdrix is a MICHELIN-Starred restaurant that boasts a large bay window opening onto the estate's magnificent vineyards. Chef David Charrier's cuisine is hyper-local, with an emphasis on ingredients from the estate and carefully selected small-scale producers. The wine list allows you to indulge without breaking the bank.
A final fabulous option: the beautiful terrace of Château Grand Barrail, overlooking the estate and the sea of vines. Unless you prefer the art nouveau lounge of course, with its antique moldings, exceptional stained-glass windows and East Asian inspired paintings. Wherever you sit, roasted eggplant with smoked caviar, tomato sauce and fig-infused balsamic would make an excellent choice. The hotel here was refurbished in summer 2023 and allows guests to rent its red Triumph TR4 classic car (for a half-day, full-day or sunset/picnic package). It’s certainly a car that won't go unnoticed in the vineyards!
Afternoon: Ride Round the Vineyards
By car or by bike, discover the most beautiful vineyards in the region. Remember, these tours must be booked several weeks in advance, either by phone or on the estates' websites. One must-see is Château Pavie, which has received the Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ distinction. It’s one of only two châteaux today to bear this status, alongside Château-Figeac, according to the latest 2022 classification specific to the Saint-Émilion AOC (revised every ten years). Three types of tour are available here, all for small groups (from €60 per person). Each one includes a presentation on the history of the estate, a tour of the cellars, and a tasting of the precious nectar.Another suggestion, a few hundred meters northwest of the village, is Château Fonroque, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. Its vineyards, certified organic in 2006 and biodynamic in 2008, stretch across a plateau. After a tour of the estate, enjoy a tasting of two wines (€25 per visitor for a private tour; €22 for groups of 7 or more). You can also opt for a vertical tasting (€45 per visitor).
Back to the Village: Ice Cream or Aperitif?
When back in the village, make sure you discover the Cloître des Cordeliers, a magnificent 13th-century monastery. One of its main attractions is its terrace and peaceful garden, along with its bubble bar of course! Here you have the opportunity to taste Crémants de Bordeaux made on site: sparkling whites (or rosés) renowned for the finesse of their bubbles. The "blanc de blanc" is made from semillon grapes, the "blanc de noir" from cabernet franc and the rosé from merlot.Another curiosity of the Cloître is its underground galleries, built to extract the stones used in the construction of Saint-Émilion and certain districts of Bordeaux. Over 3km long, they run 20m deep beneath the village of Saint-Émilion and the vineyards of various châteaux. They can be visited on foot or by tuk-tuk (contact the Cloître des Cordeliers for information). Each tour ends with a tasting of several Cordeliers sparkling wines.
If you feel like refreshing your palate, but have already tasted enough wine for the day, try Le Glacier, next to the bistro L'Envers du Décor. Sample a range of ice creams and sorbets, some created by La Table de Pavie Pastry Chef Sébastien Nabaile, such as a basil and tomato sorbet!
Dinner
Superstar chef Yannick Alléno took over the reins of the kitchens at Hôtel de Pavie in 2020. Together with talented Executive Chef Sébastien Faramond, he is bringing a breath of fresh air to the village of Saint-Émilion. The goal of La Table de Pavie, a Two Michelin Star restaurant? Win a third Star! “There are no Three Star establishments in Gironde. You have to go back to 1933 with Le Chapon Fin in Bordeaux. This region deserves to have more Starred restaurants,” asserts Alléno, the founder of the Cuisine Moderne culinary movement launched in 2013. He reiterates his desire to “take Bordeaux cuisine out of its bourgeois mindset, to offer a cuisine that is contemporary and has its own identity."At his restaurant, you can expect: the reinvention of sauces, reductions, and extractions; the use of fermentation; and dishes inspired by traditional southwestern recipes that have been reinvigorated and modernized. Garbure, lamprey, eel, oysters, and crepinette may all appear on the menu. The impressive wine list features a splendid selection of the region's finest appellations, including, of course, the wines of the eponymous Pavie Domaine. If you want to extend the evening, don't forget to book a room in advance!
Address Book
Bordeaux
Bar à vins Aux Quatre Coins du Vin: 8 rue de la Devise, 33000Bar à vin Chez Julo: 11 rue des Faures, 33000
Bar à vin L'Univerre: 40 rue Lecocq, 33000
Cave de L'Univerre: 44 rue Lecocq, 33000
Caviste RN7: 102 rue Notre Dame, 33000
Coffee shop 4ème Vague: 92 rue Notre Dame, 33000
Coffee shop Piha: 69 rue des Ayres, 33000
Le Bar à Vin du CIVB: 3 Cours du 30 Juillet, 33000
Marché des Capucins: Place des Capucins, 33800
Musée La Cité du Vin: 134 Quai de Bacalan, 33300
Saint-Émilion
Château Pavie: 2 Pimpinelle, 33330Château Fonroque: Fonroque, 33330
Église Monolithe et Clocher de Saint-Émilion: Place du Marché, 33330
Le Cloître des Cordeliers: 2 rue de la Porte Brunet, 33330
Office de Tourisme du Grand Saint-Émilionnais: Place des Créneaux Le Doyenné, 33330
Hero Image: Saint -Émilion and its famous clocher © E. BARTHELEMY
