Amongst the new additions to the MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024, it’s undeniable that the innovative NAWA Thai Cuisine soars to the highest heights. While the talented couple, Chef Napol “Joe” Jantraget and Saki Hoshino, manage all things kitchen, Wichupol “Nay” Charoensup handles the operations. Together, this team of three brings home one MICHELIN Star in their first year.
Shortly after the celebration, NAWA also brought home the prestigious Opening of the Year award presented by UOB with its modern and intriguing reinterpretation of central Thai cuisine. The young restaurateur is here to share his stories, lessons, and never-ending dreams to inspire us all.
What did you do before becoming a restaurateur?
"I never thought I’d open restaurants. Since high school, I’ve been interested and passionate about business. I always wanted to own something. After finishing a Marketing degree from Assumption University, I dipped my toes in the culinary world. A friend running a restrobar often came to me for advice. Eventually, he asked me to become a partner. When I told people I ran a restrobar, they often thought I was a male who just wanted to have a place with alcohol. I actually saw it as an opportunity to learn about running a restaurant or a business. However, because we lacked experience, that restrobar closed down."For a while, I lost my confidence and became aloof. However, I had employees to take care of, and they still believed in me. So, I picked myself up and began looking for new locations and business models. I tried various ventures, including a dessert franchise. Drawing on my experience from the restrobar, my new business became successful. One day, the idea of running an omakase place popped into my head. Initially doubtful, I wanted to challenge and prove myself, so I went ahead. Despite the challenges posed by the Great Lockdown, the feedback was tremendously positive, and we gained a reputation. And thus, NAWA was born."
How did NAWA happen?
“I frequented Chef Joe and Saki’s Samlor regularly, visiting 50-60 times a year. One day, Chef Joe asked if I wanted to collaborate with them. Although grateful for the offer, I initially declined as I felt I didn’t know them well enough, and believed Samlor could stand on its own without my involvement. Later, he approached me again with an idea for a new restaurant, providing detailed plans and asking if I was interested. All of this unfolded within a year.”Where did you draw inspiration for NAWA?
“After I started talking to Chef Joe regularly, it occurred to me that Thai food is a national treasure. I’m Thai, but I run a Japanese restaurant. I can immaculately convey stories about sushi. I help many Japanese make a profit, but not Thai people, farmers, or fishermen. With that thought, I saw an opportunity to learn about the food of our country and related business. So, I decided to team up with Chef Joe. That was only 11 months ago when NAWA started.”What were the main obstacles that you overcame?
"‘NAWA’ means new. It’s our approach to creating appearances or presentations. Although our cooking method is modern, the taste must be authentic. We agreed on that from the beginning. We tested the recipes until my dad, mum, aunts, uncles, and cousins agreed that these still count as Thai food. The challenge was how to modernise familiar Thai dishes. Tom Yam Kung can be found everywhere, from the street to 5-star hotels around the world. We use brioche instead of sandwich bread for Khanom Pang Na Mu (Fried bread with minced pork spread), a snack mums make for their kids. We want our Khanom Pang Na Mu to be the most amazing. Turning common dishes into something exciting, delectable, and well-received is the challenge of our innovative establishment."How do you feel about being the recipient of Opening of the Year, alongside the MICHELIN Star you quickly earned?
"Astounded. We're just a young and small restaurant. The MICHELIN Guide greatly honours us not only with the MICHELIN Star but also Opening of the Year award. This shows people see our determination and values in what we do. It makes us proud."What does this award mean to you?
“It’s a morale boost and proof of our dedication. In our early days, we sometimes didn’t have any customers. We were just another place among countless new restaurants with no recognition. I told my team to stand firm in what we believe. Instead of being discouraged when there was only one table and starting to panic that we were doing something wrong or had chosen the wrong path, we made that only table feel like they were the luckiest customers. With these awards, we must strive to be better, to be worthy of the recognition. We should always think about how we can improve our restaurants and ourselves.”What have you learnt from opening NAWA?
“Teamwork and respect. Each person has a clear role. When our views clash, we listen and respect each other’s decisions. Everyone is given opportunities to do things their way. We find a common ground. This is the amazing thing we intend to keep. With this, the awards we won are recognition to the entire team.”What is NAWA’s key to success?
"It's the effort to create value. I believe our customers can feel it. For example, we brought modern fishing gear to fishermen in a small village and shared with them how to preserve the fish they catch. We build connections and share know-how so we can create ingredients that meet our standards. We also meet mountain farmers who can only grow quality ingredients in low volume, working together so they can deliver enough produce. We make plans with farmers 3-4 months in advance for fruits. These efforts provide us with much better ingredient quality. You may never find fish, vegetables, and fruits that are as sweet as those outside NAWA. It's a quality experienced by less than 10% of Thai people. Additionally, we strive to recruit people with the same passion so we can deliver our beliefs to customers. I believe this is our key to success."What’s the tip for people who would like to follow your path?
"There are times when things don’t go your way when you doubt how long you can stay true to your beliefs. You think about cutting prices to attract more customers. You wonder if compromising on quality will increase sales. You are unsure if you should just take an easier path or keep hoping that you will succeed someday. Do people even appreciate what we do? I've learnt that it is essential to keep the faith. I want to encourage everybody to stay true to their beliefs."What’s next for NAWA?
"We are charged with ideas for the future. We'll elevate the ingredient quality and the service. Excellence will be found in everything. Thai food will not only turn Thai's but the world's, head. They will see Thai food in a new perspective. We want to provide a better Thai food experience."Wichupol “Nay” Charoensup is the first restauranteur to ever receive both a MICHELIN Star and the MICHELIN Opening of the Year award. His commitment to perfection and relentless endeavor, praised by diners, is recognised by the Opening of the Year Award presented by UOB.
The award honours chefs, owners, or managers whose restaurants become rising stars within 12 months of the public opening. The establishments must showcase unique culinary creativity that sparks conversations throughout the domestic F&B industry. UOB is not only a financial service provider but also a friend to foodies and talents.
Illustration image: © Anuwat Senivansa Na Ayudhya/ MICHELIN Guide Thailand