Features 3 minutes 18 September 2024

Inspectors Reveal All on the Charming Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery in Penang, Malaysia

We ask one of our MICHELIN Guide inspectors about their thoughts and notes on MICHELIN Starred Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery in Penang, Malaysia.

Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery in Penang brims with nostalgia, with each piece of memorabilia beckoning you into a world where the 60s never really ended. Auntie Gaik Lean herself is the gatekeeper of recipes whispered down through generations, guarding them with the fierce dedication of someone who knows that true flavour can never be rushed. No shortcuts are taken in her kitchen — everything is made from scratch, from the delicate Pie Tee that crunches like a dream to the Gulai Tumis, where every spoonful sings with the complexity of eight different spices, including the rare brightness of fresh saffron. And then there's the Nasi Ulam — a dish steeped in history, carrying the whispers of time in every bite.


Amongst all the MICHELIN-Starred spots in Kuala Lumpur and Penang, Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery shines in its own unpretentious way. Unlike its polished counterparts, this Penang gem doesn't dazzle with sleek interiors or the soft clink of wine glasses. There are no crisp white tablecloths, no sommelier offering you a choice between still or sparkling water. Instead, what you find is a true Peranakan institution nestled in the heart of George Town — simple, authentic, and recognised with the honour of a MICHELIN Star.

Today, we join one of our MICHELIN Guide inspectors as they recount their experience at Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery, a place where tradition is served on each plate.

Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery is nestled in the heart of George Town, Penang.
Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery is nestled in the heart of George Town, Penang.

Arrival


George Town, Penang, is like stepping into a living postcard from another time. Walk down any street, and you're greeted by the irresistible aroma of dishes sizzling in well-seasoned woks, the perfume of spices rising from pots of fragrant broths. Everywhere you look, there’s a celebration of heritage, from the ornate temples to the vivid murals that grace the walls. It doesn't try to be anything other than what it is — authentic, a little worn around the edges, but full of heart. It’s a city that invites you to linger, to get lost in its alleyways, and to savour each and every moment.


Our inspector shares: “Arriving at lunch time, I had to wait in a queue, but it was enough time to appreciate the restaurant’s surroundings. I felt a rush of nostalgia arriving at Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery. Because of the restaurant’s location, right in the heart of George Town, it is surrounded by a lot of heritage buildings. Inside the restaurant, one will see a lot of vintage decorations and trinkets — there even is a ceiling fan and 60s music playing, emphasising the ‘Old School Eatery’ quality of the place. The tiles, walls, and overall design of the space also are a nod to Auntie Gaik Lean’s roots. It’s like being welcomed inside a Peranakan home.”

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Service


“The place was so busy, and I was pleasantly surprised that the restaurant does 1-to-1 service. The staff were polite, friendly, and helpful with the dish recommendations and explanations. Auntie Gaik Lean could also be seen welcoming everyone and speaking to her regulars. I would say everybody exhibited a very easygoing and relaxed vibe. I also didn’t wait long in between dishes that were served despite how packed the place was.”

The Menu and Food


“It’s a sizeable menu and the food is very focused on Peranakan cuisine — very traditional with a lot of unique and signature dishes. It’s definitely great for big groups as the portions are generous.”

Among the dishes that were ordered included Auntie Gaik Lean’s signature Nasi Ulam, which is a rice dish mixed with various herbs and vegetables. “Despite the many ingredients in this dish, one did not overpower the other, which I thought was quite impressive. It was very well-structured and the flavours were layered well,” shares the inspector.

L-R: Nasi Ulam and Bee Koh Moy
L-R: Nasi Ulam and Bee Koh Moy

The Otak-otak was also described to be very flavourful and well-seasoned, and the Gulai Tumis (Tamarind Fish Curry) was memorable and sported great viscosity. “Sea bass was used, and the meat was very bouncy and fresh,” the inspector adds.

“For dessert, I got the Bee Koh Moy (black glutinous rice with coconut milk), which was delicious and not too sweet. The coconut milk really shone through, and because it was warm, it was a comforting way to end the meal,” expresses the inspector.

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Inspector Tips and Takeaways


“Leaving the restaurant, I felt satisfied. I was able to chat with Auntie Gaik Lean for a bit; she explained the dishes to me, telling me that the recipes were passed down from generations and that everything is still prepared by hand in the kitchen. I appreciated that she still uses these ‘secret recipes’ to cook dishes that can be experienced by many.”

According to our inspector, the dishes did not exhibit any fusion elements, which is a good thing if the restaurant is promoting authentic Peranakan cuisine.

“There weren’t too many bells and whistles. Many of the items are made from scratch and in-house, and you can tell that the ingredients used are of really high quality.”

“I would say that this is more of a family-style restaurant, so one can dress comfortably and casually. It’s great for gatherings with family and friends — they have large tables, so they are able to accommodate even groups of ten or more. However, because it can get quite loud, it might not be the best place for business meetings,” the inspector shares.

One tip from our inspector is that if you are planning to dine in more than a group of three, it’s best to make a reservation. However, should you decide to dine at Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery on a whim, be prepared to wait, but exploring the area around it reduces the boredom as there are some quaint little cafés and shops buildings to check out nearby.

Where to Stay in Penang: If you’re planning to visit Penang, consider booking Shangri-La Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa, a MICHELIN Guide hotel that serves as an oasis amidst the busy city. Borrowed from a Malay folk song, "rasa sayang" translates to "a feeling of love" or "relaxation." Spacious rooms overlook lush landscapes and vibrant seas. Suites offer private verandas, and depending on your wing, you might also enjoy complimentary drinks, meals, and butler service. The spa is also not to be missed.

All photos are courtesy of Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery.

Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery is located at 1 Lebuh Bishop, George Town, 10200, Malaysia. Make your booking here.

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