Cutting ceremonies involving gigantic silvery Bluefin tuna usually conjures up images of early morning tuna auctions and serious Japanese chefs wielding long blades—but did you know that the Spanish have their own 3,000-year-old tradition of tuna cutting as well?
“Many of the tunas from Spain actually end up at these Japanese auctions,” says chef/owner Nandu Jubany of one-Michelin-starred Can Jubany in Barcelona, ahead of his visit to Singapore next week where he will be leading the El Ronqueo De Atún ceremony at FOC Sentosa.
“Bluefin tuna is regarded as a gem in both Spanish and Japanese cultures. Of course, each of these cultures is different, hence the processes diverge, however, they are all fascinating in their own way.”
“Bluefin tuna is regarded as a gem in both Spanish and Japanese cultures. Of course, each of these cultures is different, hence the processes diverge, however, they are all fascinating in their own way.”
The Spanish tradition starts with the fishing of the tuna through a sustainable, time-honoured method called almadraba, one of the oldest trap-fishing processes stemming from 3,000-year-old Phoenician traditions. The fish are caught at the beginning of spring each year, when the tuna are crossing the Gibraltar Strait to enter the Mediterranean sea. According to chef Jubany, this is considered the best interval to catch them due to their optimal fat content, excellent flavour, texture and quality at that time.
In Spain, the cutting of the tuna is as celebrated an affair as in Japan. El Ronqueo de atún means ‘snoring of tuna’, derived from the muffled sound that the knife makes when the Maestro Cortador—or, cutting master—meticulously cuts along the tuna’s spine.
In Spain, the cutting of the tuna is as celebrated an affair as in Japan. El Ronqueo de atún means ‘snoring of tuna’, derived from the muffled sound that the knife makes when the Maestro Cortador—or, cutting master—meticulously cuts along the tuna’s spine.
Running a knife along the spine of the tuna makes the 'snoring' sound for which the Spanish ceremony is named.
Serving as the Maestro Cortador at the Big FOC Tuna event on 20 March at FOC Sentosa is chef Jubany, along with chef Hideki Matsuhisa of one-Michelin-starred restaurant Koy Shunka in Barcelona. In the ceremony, the two chefs will dissect the tuna and extract numerous pieces of the fish such as the prized belly, loin, bone meat, marrow, tripe, heart and bloodline.
“The processes might be slightly differing, however the respect towards the great product and its quality, using every single part of its cuts during a compelling ceremony, stays the same,” says chef Jubany. “It is fascinating for me that two completely different cultures celebrate and appreciate the same product, or a similar one, in a very similar way.”
“The processes might be slightly differing, however the respect towards the great product and its quality, using every single part of its cuts during a compelling ceremony, stays the same,” says chef Jubany. “It is fascinating for me that two completely different cultures celebrate and appreciate the same product, or a similar one, in a very similar way.”
From Left: Hideki Matsuhisa (Koy Shunka), Pau Eche Garcia (FOC Sentosa), Carles Gaig (Gaig) and Jordi Noguera (FOC Group).
In the next two days that follow, the choice cuts from the tuna will be showcased at sequel events at FOC Restaurant (Hongkong Street) and FOC PIM PAM taking place on 21 and 22 March, respectively. Chefs Jubany and Matsuhisa will present the four-hands lunch and dinner at FOC Restaurant; Carles Gaig of his one-Michelin-starred eponymous Gaig will join them on the second evening, along with co/owner Jordi Noguera and FOC Sentosa’s executive chef Pau Eche Garcia, to create an array of tapas highlighting the prized fish.
“It will be a very enriching experience for both customers as well as for us, as chefs,” says chef Jubany. “We are very excited about learning from each other, since each guest chef has a rich experience and are recognised for their cuisine and knowledge. Just imagine all these chefs working side-by-side to create something unique together. It is tremendously exciting!”
“It will be a very enriching experience for both customers as well as for us, as chefs,” says chef Jubany. “We are very excited about learning from each other, since each guest chef has a rich experience and are recognised for their cuisine and knowledge. Just imagine all these chefs working side-by-side to create something unique together. It is tremendously exciting!”
