Dining In 1 minute 06 January 2018

Recipe: Dill Brined Cabbage

Simon Rogan Of Two Michelin-starred L’Enclume shows how you can yield complex, meaty results when you treat your vegetables right.

Simon Rogan helms two Michelin-starred L’Enclume in the picturesque village of Cartmel in Cumbria where he serves up vegetable-forward cuisine, farmed and foraged from the surrounding region northwest of England. In 2009, Rogan developed Our Farm, just outside Cartmel, where he began cultivating a diverse range of seasonal produce that took less than an hour to go from harvest-to-plate.
Simon Rogan (left) in Singapore, recently in a collaboration with Kirk Westaway at JAAN.
Simon Rogan (left) in Singapore, recently in a collaboration with Kirk Westaway at JAAN.
Recently in Singapore for a four-hands collaboration and masterclass with resident chef Kirk Westaway at JAAN, he shares the recipe for one of his signature dish: dill-brined cabbage with mock teriyaki sauce and wasabi emulsion, a surprisingly complex creation with deep, meaty flavors.

The humble cabbage—grown and harvested from the chef’s farm—is the star of the show in this dish that encapsulates Rogan’s cooking philosophy: the freshest produce, treated with as much respect as a prime cut of meat.
Dill Brined Cabbage - Chef Simon.JPG

Dill Brined Cabbage
Serves 4

For the cabbage:

2 cabbages (Sweetheart or Sugarloaf), halved 
2 liters water
100 grams salt
40 grams dill

Method
1. In a large pot of boiling salted water, add cabbages with dill; remove from heat and let cool. 
2. Brine the cabbages in the liquid overnight.
3. Remove from liquid, pat dry and set aside.

For the Wasabi Emulsion:
3 whole egg yolks
2 whole eggs
15 grams wasabi paste
4 grams kosher salt
500 milliliters sunflower oil 

Method

1. Blend egg yolks, eggs, salt and wasabi together, then add in the oil until a thick emulsion is formed.
2. Pour into a heatproof cream whipper; reserve.
Chef Simon Rogan.JPG
For the Mock Teriyaki:
250 milliliters stout vinegar
50 milliliters English mead
300 milliliters mushroom stock (See recipe below)
50 grams fermented mushroom juice (See recipe below)
50 grams granulated sugar
10 grams corn flour slurry

Method
1. Gently simmer the stout vinegar until reduced by 2/3.
2. Evaporate the alcohol in the mead by simmering, and turn off the fire.
3. Add the mushroom stock, sugar and fermented mushroom juice, and reduce.
4. While constantly stirring, add the corn flour slurry bit by bit to thicken.
5. Add the reduced vinegar.
For Assembly
200 grams brown Shimeji mushrooms
60 grams pearl onions
unsalted butter
Chives or wild garlic leaves, for garnish
Grated truffle, for garnish

Method
1. Fry the Shimeji mushrooms and pearl onions in 1-2 Tablespoons butter; wilt over the chives or garlic leaves. Season and set aside.
2. Spoon a pool of the mock teriyaki sauce on a plate and top with cabbage.
3. Spoon over some mushrooms, top with some wasabi emulsion and finish with grated truffle.

For the Mushroom Stock
100 grams shallot, peeled and finely sliced 
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely sliced 
1-2 Tablespoons sunflower oil
2 sprigs thyme 
600 grams chestnut mushrooms, finely sliced and dried overnight in a very low-heated oven
200 milliliters Madeira
1 Tablespoon Sherry vinegar
1.5 liters water

Method
1. In a medium saucepan, fry the shallots and garlic gently in sunflower oil until translucent; add the thyme and dried mushrooms.
2. Pour in the Madeira and Sherry vinegar and reduce by 2/3.
3. Add the water and simmer for 2 hours. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Leave in a fridge overnight to mature.
4. Pass the stock through a sieve, reduce by half and season with salt and pepper.

For the Fermented Mushroom Juice
250 grams chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced
15 grams salt

Method
1. Freeze the sliced mushrooms then mix them with salt.
2. Leave in a warm place for 24 hours.

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