Dining In 5 minutes 24 December 2024

How to Make French Roasted Chicken Like a MICHELIN Chef: Dos and Don'ts from Lanshu Chen and Raymond Fang of Le Côté LM

A perfectly roasted chicken with an irresistible aroma has always been the highlight of any gathering. Chefs Lanshu Chen and Raymond Fang of Le Côté LM share their secrets to mastering French roasted chicken(poulet rôti)—from picking the perfect chicken to stuffing tips and roasting dos and don’ts!

A perfectly roasted chicken with an irresistible aroma has always been the highlight of any gathering. French roasted chicken (poulet rôti), in particular, emphasizes the natural flavours of the chicken and its connection to the season, offering an elegant and rich taste that sets it apart from the charm of American-style roasted chicken.

This year, the MICHELIN-selected restaurant Le Côté LM in Taichung introduced a takeout-exclusive set featuring a whole French roasted chicken, seared vegetables, and mashed potatoes, perfect for sharing among three to four people. Founder and culinary director Lanshu Chen explained that, unlike American roasted chicken, French roasted chicken does not necessarily involve stuffing. The focus is on enhancing the aroma and juiciness of the chicken itself rather than the stuffing or side ingredients. Additionally, while American roasted chicken is typically brined in a spice solution before roasting to retain moisture, the French method instead uses butter spread over the chicken's skin to add aroma and improve browning.

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Chef Lanshu 主廚陳嵐舒 Le Cote LM 小樂沐.jpg

Traditional French roasted chicken also incorporates techniques to boost its juiciness. "Ingredients rich in fat, such as bacon, Iberico lardo, or lard seasoned with herbs and dried, provide a deep, elegant aroma," Chen explained. "The French often slice these thinly and wrap them around the chicken before roasting." If these ingredients are hard to find, thinly sliced pork belly can be a good substitute.

According to Chen (photo on the right, ©Le Côté LM), for most French people, the flavour highlight is the roasted chicken itself, so the seasoning is kept minimal—just salt and pepper for a simple and pure taste. French roasted chicken is always served with a sauce. If stuffing is used, it’s not to increase the portion but to enhance the flavour. 

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"French stuffing usually consists of garlic, thyme, and small amounts of rosemary or other fresh herbs. The drippings from the roasted chicken, seasoned simply with salt and pepper, make a fantastic dipping sauce," she said.

Stuffing is also carefully chosen to reflect the season. For example, autumn and winter favourites like chestnuts, wild mushrooms, and olives, or grains like quinoa and millet, are often used. These ingredients are sautéed with butter until about 80% cooked before being stuffed into the chicken cavity for roasting. It’s important not to overfill the cavity to ensure even cooking during roasting.

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Trussing, on the other hand, helps the chicken maintain its shape during roasting, but this step can be adjusted based on personal preference. (©Karen Lin)
Trussing, on the other hand, helps the chicken maintain its shape during roasting, but this step can be adjusted based on personal preference. (©Karen Lin)

In traditional French roasted chicken, removing the wishbone and trussing the chicken are essential steps. Chen explains that the wishbone is a V-shaped bone located near the chicken’s neck. Removing it beforehand makes it easier for guests to enjoy the chicken and simplifies carving. However, deboning requires a certain level of skill and is not strictly necessary. Trussing, on the other hand, helps the chicken maintain its shape during roasting, but this step can be adjusted based on personal preference.

Chen also offers a crucial tip: before taking the roasted chicken out of the oven, check the coloring and doneness about five minutes earlier than planned. The area near the thighs, where they connect to the body, is often the hardest to cook through. At this point, you can carefully lift the chicken with a meat fork and check both sides of the thighs. If the juices run pinkish with traces of blood, cover the breast meat with aluminum foil and return the chicken to the oven for further roasting.

If you’re uncertain about whether the chicken is fully cooked, a thermometer can help. The core temperature at the thickest part of the chicken should be around 60–65°C when the breasts are still tender, and the thighs are about 80% done. For any unevenly browned parts, you can brush on a bit more butter at this stage. Once the core temperature rises to 70°C, the chicken is perfectly cooked and ready to come out of the oven.

主廚方柏儼 Raymond Fang Le Cote LM 小樂沐 roasted chicken.jpg

Poulet Rôti Dos & Don’ts

1、Choosing the Chicken

Dos: Select a small hen that is at least six months old, weighs around 1.6 to 1.8 kilograms, has glossy and elastic skin, and is free from bruises. Under these conditions, the chicken’s flavour, texture, aroma, and richness of subcutaneous fat will meet a high standard.  (The left photo shows Le Côté LM's chef Raymond Fang ©Karen Lin.)

Don’ts: Generally, roosters have tougher bones and less fat compared to hens, and their breast meat is significantly different in quality, making them harder to manage during roasting. 

While capons are fattier and more tender than roosters, their larger size (usually starting at 3 kilograms) makes it difficult to achieve even doneness.

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2、Preparing the Chicken

Dos: Ask your butcher to remove the innards, excess lymph nodes, and blood clots. Then, coat the chicken inside and out with your preferred seasoning. The traditional French method uses only salt and pepper for flavouring—about 12–13 grams of salt per kilogram of chicken—and butter on the surface to create a protective layer that prevents the meat from drying out.

If you prefer richer flavours or are working with a larger chicken to avoid under-seasoning, you can make a brine and soak the chicken for about a day to ensure even seasoning. A basic brine ratio is 2 liters of water to 90 grams of salt. To prepare, boil half of the water with a few black peppercorns, bay leaves, two lemon slices, a few crushed garlic cloves, and fresh herbs. Once the salt has dissolved, add the remaining water to cool the brine. The liquid should be enough to fully submerge the chicken.

Don’ts: Never place the chicken into the brine before it has fully cooled, and ensure it soaks for at least 12 hours for full flavour. Additionally, in Taiwan, whole chickens are often cut from the breast down unless otherwise requested. Inform your butcher to cut from the back instead to preserve the chicken's appearance after roasting. Lastly, French roasted chicken is not sweet. Overusing sugar or honey will result in a flavour profile closer to American or even Chinese roasted chicken.

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3、Stuffing

Dos: Place fresh aromatics such as thyme, bay leaves, rosemary, onions, garlic, or lemon slices inside the chicken cavity to infuse the meat with flavour and depth. Remove the stuffing after roasting. The juices released during cooking can be seasoned simply with salt and pepper to make an excellent accompanying sauce.

Don’ts: Avoid overfilling the cavity with stuffing, as it can impede heat penetration and affect even cooking. Additionally, the amount of chicken juices that seep into the stuffing is typically minimal. If using rice-based stuffing like pilaf, reduce the water used to cook the rice by about 10–15% compared to usual, to prevent it from becoming overly moist after roasting, which could compromise the texture.

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4、 Roasting the Chicken

Dos: While steps like trussing and removing the wishbone are optional, traditional French roasted chicken is often cooked using a side-by-side roasting method. Since the heat levels in home ovens can vary, it’s recommended to experiment and find the ideal temperature. Generally, roasting at 180–190°C for about 50–60 minutes works well.
Lay the chicken on its side on a roasting pan, with one leg facing upwards. Roast at 180–190°C for 15 minutes, then take it out and flip it to the other side, with the opposite leg facing upwards, and roast for another 15 minutes.

Finally, place the chicken breast side up and roast for another 15 minutes. During this final stage, baste the chicken skin with hot butter every five minutes to give the skin a crispy, aromatic texture. You can also layer thick slices of potatoes under the chicken. By the time the chicken is done, the potatoes will have absorbed the butter and meat juices, making them irresistibly flavourful.

Don’ts: Smaller home ovens can pose a risk of insufficient heat distribution. In such cases, if the first 30 minutes of roasting is not accompanied by a protective layer of aluminium foil or thick potato slices covering the breast, the breast meat may burn before the chicken is fully cooked.

5、Final Tips

After removing the roasted chicken from the oven, let it rest in a warm spot at room temperature for 10–15 minutes. Before serving, reheat the outer skin in the oven for about five minutes, brush on a bit of melted butter for added shine, and garnish with bouquet garni or roasted vegetables. Resting allows the meat to retain most of its juices, ensuring that the chicken remains flavourful and moist when carved.

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Poulet Rôti Recipe by Le Côté LM

Ingredients

  • 1 whole chicken, around 1.5 -1.8 kg
  • 2pc garlic clove
  • 1T white pepper corn
  • 1T sea salt
  • 1 bunch of thyme
  • 200g soft butter

Procedures:

1. Clean the chicken and season the interior with garlic, white peppercorns, salt, and thyme.

2. Prepare the trussing needle and string, then truss the chicken. This helps maintain its shape, makes handling easier, and ensures even roasting. (optional)

3. Spread softened butter evenly over the chicken, then place it in the oven preheated to 190°C. Use a thermometer to check the temperature at the thickest part of the thigh, which should reach 65°C.

4. Remove the chicken from the oven and let it rest for 10–15 minutes.

5. Heat the side dishes, carve the chicken, and serve. Enjoy!

The article is written by Karen Lin. Read the original article here. 

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