This is the kind of retreat where one can sink in and never leave. The three dining rooms each exude elegance with a bit of romance and quirk—largely thanks to walls covered with ornate escutcheons and whimsical paintings. Against these dark pebbled backgrounds, find plush oversized booths, banquettes, and mirrored light bulbs casting funky shadows throughout the room. The semi-outdoor solarium also has a living wall of moss and ferns. Servers are friendly, genuine, and without a hint of pretense.Over in the kitchen, Chef Lee Wolen turns out a widely appealing modern menu with a Mediterranean edge. Meals are designed for guests to choose one hot and one cold appetizer, like delicate ricotta dumplings over a verdant purée with thin slices of goat Gouda and fried garlic. This might then be followed by simple-but-elegant marinated cucumbers set over a bed of toasted sunflower seeds and sesame purée. Main courses have included a tender short rib with beef tongue delivering multidimensional flavors.In the same vein, desserts here make for an exceptionally pleasant experience. Hazelnut and chocolate mousse with a quenelle of caramelized condensed milk ice cream is a classical treat.