There are few more joyously colourful and lavishly decorated restaurants in London than The Lecture Room & Library. As you’re whisked past the braided rope and up the stairs to the first floor of Mourad Mazouz and Pierre Gagnaire’s 18C house of fun, you’ll feel your expectations rise with every step. Once seated in your eminently comfortable armchair, a team of unfailingly attentive and professional staff are on hand to ensure that all those expectations are met.

The highly organised kitchen team do an extraordinary job in executing dishes bearing all the Pierre Gagnaire hallmarks: the main ‘plate’ comes surrounded by a number of complementary dishes and before long your table is covered with an assortment of vessels. Each element excels in terms of structure, composition, elegance and, above all, flavour. This is cooking that is original and immaculately rendered but also generous.